Guest Report

15 open-plan lodges and apartments on a steep hillside (listing)
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Graham Leckie

Guest Report

Post by Graham Leckie »

This was our third stay in Tobago in 3 years and our 2nd, three week stay at Castara Retreats. Previously, Birdsong lodge was under construction and wonderfully aromatic from the insect resistant hardwoods it’s built from. Now the years had mellowed it – beautifully – and the surrounding gardens were lush and colourful, alive with native birds, including dozens of darting humming birds. Birdsong is spacious with 4 sun decks plus a large roofed veranda/general living space. Open 3 sides (with storm shutters, if needed) it overlooks Castara Bay (watch for stingrays feeding.) There’s a dining table, chairs and a suite of comfortable upholstered wicker sofas. No TV (not missed). The master bedroom (en suite bathroom) is to the side and rear of the well equipped kitchen. The beds were comfortable with efficient, frame mosquito nets, essential in the green season. The lower deck contains the second good sized bedroom (en suite.) A minor complaint is that the room was a bit stuffy at night, requiring a fan most times.

Don’t expect peaceful nights, however. Cockerels start crowing in the wee hours while chachalacas start their gabbling calls. Remember, Castara’s a working village, that’s its charm, and people start early; strimming at 5am to the accompaniment of trucks grinding up the hill. Consequently few folks have late workday nights and are often in bed by 11pm. The obvious exceptions are Friday’s Limin’ sessions and Saturday night. ‘Sunday School’ is a different matter, mainly staged for tourists – we avoid it, it can get a bit too rumbustious after the rum’s flowed a while. Daylight in Castara sees a small truck tooting its way through the village. The goats in the back, wide eyed in innocent anticipation of a holiday, are, sadly for them, off to the abattoir. Note also that the cute animal tethered at the road side is likely your dinner the following evening at Marguerite’s or one of the village’s other no frills eateries. But please put your qualms away – this is real food and Tobago goat curry or a roti is one of life’s pleasures. NOTE: The cafe/restaurant opposite Marguerite’s is especially recommended – excellent value and the owner couldn’t be more helpful. His breakfasts are terrific – try his salt fish & coconut bake.

You can’t mention Castara Retreats without including Porridge, their local man on the ground. He’s a legend; super helpful, down to earth and your best friend while you’re there. If you want it, he’ll get it – nothing’s too much trouble. He has vehicles for hire and if you don’t fancy driving he’ll take you wherever you want to go; trips & excursions. Janelle (Mrs Porridge) looks after everything domestic at the Retreats, along with her staff, many of whom are family. We’ve never had any cause for complaint re cleanliness or any aspect of housekeeping. Excellent!

We’ve stayed on Tobago during the dry and the green (wet) seasons. The latter sees more insect life; mozzies of course, so apply repellent with min 50% Deet at night. Other ‘scary’ looking critters include stick insects, praying mantis, huge crickets and locusts; but leave ‘em alone, they’re harmless. Useful house lizards live in Birdsong’s eaves helping control the bugs, so be careful how much insecticide you spray. Tiny fruit bats are regular evening visitors, attracted to the bird feeders, which should be topped up with brown sugar for the banana quits, tanagers and mot mots. You’ll likely only see their flitting shadows but it’s fun trying to photograph them.

Re-exploring Castara this time we found it had hardly changed; the school appeared to sport a new roof, and the old ladies from the village still baked delicious bread and cakes twice weekly in the clay oven in the school's grounds. Every church (a dozen last count) was full on Sundays. The grog shop sold the cheapest rum and beer and the ground provision shop still opened erratically. There’s a largish supermarket, which is big on shelf space but not on stock. The ultimate shopping experience, though, is Maxi’s down by the fishing co-op’s shelter. He has everything you need; and if it’s not in stock – you simply don’t need it! Call in on during Friday afternoon’s limin’ and you might be offered a rum – or two.

Down on the beach the fishermen land their catch, twice daily, gutting and preparing it mainly for hotels down the coast. Take the initiative, ask what’s available and take your own bag to carry away your purchases. If you don’t, you’ll be sent to Maxi's to buy them a bottle of Guinness, in a carrier bag. Tip: take extra bags and make a gift of them; you might get another couple fillets – gratis! Top tip: Flash your tuna fillets in a little oil; roughly a minute each side. Finish with a good squeeze of the lime or lemon that you’ve just picked in the Retreats’ garden: Fantastic with a fresh green mango, lime and chilli salsa.

ESSENTIAL EXCURSIONS:
Rain Forest. Seek out Darlington Chance, a terrific guide. He’s a Rasta with a delightful sense of humour. You’ll learn a new word too; ‘weelies’ – they’re highly recommended btw.
Argyle Falls is on everyone’s list but also discover rarely visited Hillsborough Dam and Greenhills Waterfalls, going the ‘wrong’ way, north-south, from Mason Hall; 4x4 essential.
From Bateaux Bay visit Little Tobago by glass bottomed boat. Guides show you red billed tropic and frigate birds. Back on the mainland, walk (take water) the old sugar road, rear of Blue Waters Hotel, following it round to deserted, secluded Belmont Bay.
Drive old North Coast (rainforest) Rd to Charlottesville – gorgeous views of secret bays.
Take day trip with Castara’s Alibaba; snorkel Buccoo Reef, BBQ at No Man’s Land), glide through mangroves and relax
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Paul Williams
Oh, so Sad!
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Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 10:49 am
Location: Hamble,Southampton,England

Re: Guest Report

Post by Paul Williams »

Wow Graham that is a report that really captures the soul of Castara.
Sadly we will not be able to visit for a couple of years so we rely on getting the feel on mytobago and this has achieved it.
Regards
Paul
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