Blue Waters Inn - Review Page 1

Reviewed by Steve & Jill Wooler in January 2003

We concluded our 2003 review of the Blue Waters Inn in Speyside by saying “It is almost inconceivable that we won’t return. The question isn't if - only when”.

Since saying that, we have enjoyed stays of five days or more at over 50 establishments on Tobago. They have ranged from simple studio apartments to the most luxurious all-inclusive resorts and villas on the island. The only thing they share in common is that we consider them all worthy of public consideration.

It is not our aim to compare establishments. Whilst we never hesitate to share our thoughts and impressions, we attempt to do so only from the widest possible perspective. Hotel choice is a subjective matter and no establishment is right for everyone. We therefore simply report the facts and let the reader determine whether the property seems right for them.

The Blue Waters Inn has long been one of our favourite places on Tobago. This no-frills 3* 38-room hotel has suffered from wildly differing customer opinion. However, what cannot be denied is that this small establishment has one of the most stunning locations on Tobago and provides immediate access to some of the very best diving and bird watching on the island.

Location

The Blue Waters Inn is located in gorgeous Batteaux Bay, just north of Speyside. It is very easy to find: just continue through Speyside village, towards Charlotteville; pass Jemma’s Treehouse Restaurant and the Speyside Inn, then fork right directly opposite the Manta Lodge; follow the old and bumpy road for close to a mile, always bearing right.

The Blue Waters Inn has an interesting past. I first visited the premises in 1959 when it was known as Camp Crusoe. At that time it was a summer camp, teaching sailing and diving to expatriate youngsters. The camp closed and in 1970 was converted to a hotel.

The hotel is set amidst 46 acres of dense trees and vegetation, bordering an old cocoa plantation. It is not surprising that the Blue Waters is one of Tobago's most popular hotels with bird watchers. An added benefit is that two of the islands best bird guides live in the immediate area and that the Main Ridge Rainforest Reserve is only a short drive away.

Not satisfied with its birding status, the Blue Waters also has the good fortune to be on the doorstep of some of the islands best drift diving. A good dive facility operates from the hotel, as do two good tour operators, providing glass-bottom boat snorkelling tours and excursions to Little Tobago.

The hotel and lovely Batteaux Bay are about a mile from Speyside village – a pleasant 15-minute walk. More than a few guests walk down to the village restaurants during the evening. It should be pointed out that there are long stretches of road with no lighting. My tip would be to invest in a tiny pocket-size mini-Maglite torch. Your own transport is not essential, but as with all other Tobago accommodation, a rental car will give you the freedom and opportunity to explore this lovely island in your own time.

Speyside village has little to commend it. There are one or two small grocery stores, but no shops that would be of interest to the average visitor. The village does not have a supermarket, pharmacy, bank, ATM machine or petrol (gas) station. There are, however, a few dining options. Seen by many as an over-priced tourist trap, the well-known Jemma’s Treehouse Restaurant is loved by some and loathed by others. I can’t think of a restaurant on Tobago that receives more varied reports. Redman Simple offers the best value. The Birdwatcher’s Restaurant is great for lobster. Don’t expect menus or great choice at any of these local Creole restaurants – the choice is normally just fish, shrimp, chicken or meat (generally goat). For those wanting something of more international flavour, the Speyside Inn normally represents an excellent choice, offering decent food at very reasonable prices. The Manta Lodge does not count as a choice.

Speyside is about an hour’s drive from capital, Scarborough, and 75-90 minutes from the airport.

Architecture

The Blue Waters Inn is essentially a long complex of one and two-story concrete buildings. Set amongst mature foliage, you can never see more than a small portion of the hotel from any one point. Even from the sea or air, the seagrape trees along the beach frontage hide much of the buildings. This is all to the good, of course: the average visitor is probably totally uninterested in the buildings and wants to focus on the beach, sea and gardens.

The hotel actually comprises several buildings set in close proximity and semi-connected. The buildings are painted in an attractive light turquoise-green with darker-green highlights. Whilst not of any particular architectural merit, the overall appearance is functional but presentable and blends into the landscaped grounds. Because of the setting, you simply never notice the buildings in their entirety. Considerable maintenance and upgrading has taken place within the past year and I have to say that the property is looking better than I have ever seen it.

Wheelchair access to the hotel is reasonably good. Two of the cottages have been fitted with grab rails in the bathrooms. There is also level access to the upper floor of one of the three standard room accommodation blocks. Entry to the hotel, dining room and bar should prove no problem in a wheelchair.

Clientele

The Blue Waters Inn attracts a surprisingly mixed clientele. It has to be said that the hotel’s unique location does place the hotel in an enviable situation. Other than a few small guesthouses and self-catering apartments, it is the only hotel of any consequence in the north of Tobago.

Visitors attracted by the beauty of the area, by the bird watching or by the diving, often stay at this hotel even when it does not meet their normal accommodation selection criteria. We have regularly met guests who normally stay at the 4/5-star hotels in the south-west of the island but come to the Blue Waters Inn for a few days for a complete change of scenery and to experience the wonderful diving or bird watching.

Whilst we did not notice any specific facilities for children, the hotel is very child-friendly and I am confident that baby-sitting and other help could be arranged. The diving, snorkelling and nature trails mean that there is much to keep youngsters happy.

Being a great people-watcher by nature, I found the mix of residents and day visitors fascinating. I’m sure that most readers will agree with me that birders and divers are not groups that you would expect to find in the same establishment. Stereotypical examples of both were to be found in abundance and totally enriched the social mix. Unlike most hotels, the clientele truly crossed all socioeconomic, nationality and age barriers. As a result, the hotel seemed far less status conscious or cliquey than its more up-market competitors.

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