Cuffie River Nature Retreat - Review Page 5
Grounds & Nature Walks
The hotel and grounds are built on land recovered from secondary bush. The old cocoa plantation on which the hotel is built was abandoned after Hurricane Flora wreaked her devastation in 1963. Growth is rapid in the tropics. After thirty-five years it must have been a nightmare even surveying the land, much less clearing it and deciding what to build where.
The hotel is surrounded by wild heliconias, bamboo groves and ancient cypress and pine trees. The immortelle trees planted to provide shade to the more delicate cocoa have survived, reproducing themselves continuously. They were coming into bloom during our stay and there is nothing more beautiful than the setting sun casting her spell over the flame orange blossom of the immortelle. The terraced slopes of the ridge upon which the lodge stands have been planted with every manner of tropical plant and bush, in total sympathy with the natural environment. This is no place for formal gardens. You are surrounded by nature, to the very foundations of the buildings. Even inside, potted exotic plants continue the theme.
Bird tables and feeders have been placed at strategic points around the hotel and are clearly visible from all common areas and many rooms. Although the birds appear largely unconcerned by human presence, guests invariably talk in hushed tones, not wanting to scare them away. Breakfast and lunch tend to be long drawn out affairs; it is hard to drag yourself away from the joy of watching myriad species of birds arguing over the fruit laid out on the feeding tables. I’ve never seen as many white-necked Jacobins anywhere else on Tobago and their territorial disputes continue all day long.
There are several trails in the Runnemede valley, but the dangers of getting lost make it unwise for guests to go wandering about in the bush on their own. However, walks up the three-mile driveway are both easy and rewarding. Fortunately, the hotel has an excellent guide, Desmond, who leads small parties of guests and non-residents on general, nature or bird-watching tours, between Monday and Friday and Sundays on request.
We had the pleasure of taking a three-hour ‘general’ nature walk with Desmond. He is knowledgeable, articulate and amusing and pitched the tour just right, providing us with just a nice mix and level of explanation. On the other hand, he had spent much of the previous few days with a party of eight serious American bird watchers. We know from their comments that they found him an excellent birding guide. Having established the levels of interest and fitness of our small party, Desmond picked an easy route that was both interesting and rewarding and which was conducted at a pace that placed minimum pressure on even sedentary old sods like me.
The nature walks are open to non-residents of the hotel. I can highly recommend visitors (staying anywhere on the island) to book a tour with Desmond, followed by lunch at the hotel.
Conclusion
If you love birds and nature, or if you are seeking somewhere to chill out and relax in a small, friendly and intimate environment, we can thoroughly recommend the Cuffie River Nature Retreat.
Creating the highest standards of accommodation and catering within a natural and eco-friendly environment is no easy task. Regina has undoubtedly achieved her dream and ambition and must be congratulated for her vision. Her establishment is unique on Tobago. The standards of accommodation rank with the best hotels on the island. Her catering is by far the most interesting. The hotel is small and intimate, so guests quickly mingle and share experiences. It is owned, run and staffed by Tobagonians.
Yes, the Cuffie River is a very special and unique place. We shall think of it with very great fondness until our return. We can highly recommend it, either as part of a multi-centre holiday, or as a base for a full vacation on Tobago.
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