Top O' Tobago - Review Page 5
Beaches
It is a very pleasant 10-minute walk to the beach in Arnos Vale Bay. Two paths have been cut down the hillside from Top O’ Tobago, past a lovely bamboo grove. The paths lead you to the road that will take you into Plymouth or across the road to the trail that runs alongside the Arnos Vale Hotel to the public beach. Although relatively steep, the paths are an easy walk and well within the capability of any normal visitor.
Arnos Vale beach is a typical picture postcard tropical beach. The fact that a small hotel borders the beach is only a minor irritation and, in fact, the facilities of that hotel can be welcome (although they do charge well over-the-odds at the beach bar).
Snorkelling in Arnos Vale Bay is generally perceived to be the best on the island and conditions are suitable for both novice and advanced snorkellers. The small reef is still in good condition and you will see a wonderful variety of colourful tropical fish. Turtles are not unknown during the breeding season (April-July) and at other times manta rays and moray eels are not uncommon.
Security
I am delighted to report that the wonderful natural environment of Top O’ Tobago is not defaced by high security walls, fences or electronic gates.
All main doors have sturdy locks and bolts and can be adequately secured at night. Many windows have decorative wrought iron grills andthe external shutters can be left fully open without compromising security.
In truth, this property hardly needs any of this as it boasts two of the best security guards I’ve come across on the island – Hugh’s’ two Alsatians (German Shepherd), Champ and Bandit.
Even when they seem to be lying in the shade sleeping, Champ particularly has an ear cocked, listening for the slightest “human” sound. And boy, when he does, he’s off like a rocket to investigate. He’s a wonderfully friendly dog that loves to be patted and stroked, except when he’s conducting one of his solitary regular patrols around the property, when he is so focused on his duties that he won’t even look at you. I never once heard him bark, growl or show the slightest sign of aggression, but nothing would terrify a burglar more than the sight of Champ hurtling towards you down the hillside.
Excursions
Top O’ Tobago’s location makes it an ideal base from which to tour the beautiful beaches of the northern Caribbean coast, the rain forest and indeed, the entire island. This can either be accomplished in your own self-drive rental vehicle, or through one of the many tour guides, most of whom will be willing to pick you up from the property.
There are a number of very pleasant nature trails in the area. One particularly nice early morning walk, with wonderful coastal views, is the old Mot Mot Trail at the foot of the hill, beside the Arnos Vale Hotel. It takes about an hour to walk to the Footprints Eco Resort at Culloden, but you could always arrange to be collected from there for the short drive back. You could even break the journey on the way with a slight detour down the cliffs to Hidden Bay, although be warned that the seas can run high and make swimming a little tricky.
Shopping, Catering & Dining
There is a small supermarket (small being the operative word) and a number of local stores in Plymouth village, just a five minute drive away from Top O’ Tobago. However, this will satisfy only your most basic requirements.
The nearest “decent” supermarket is Morshead Gourmet Foods at Mount Pleasant. This is a 15 minute drive back towards the airport (turn left just before Me-Shells Restaurant, one mile from the Buccoo junction crossroad at the end of the golf course). This supermarket has an excellent choice of imported foods and is our favourite, but it has to be said that it is more expensive than the larger PennySavers supermarkets, both of which are a little further on in Canaan or Carnbee.
Carnbee (turn left at the Buccoo junction) is a useful village to know. Immediately in front of the PennySavers supermarket is the very friendly and helpful Dove Drugs, the nearest pharmacy.
The fisherman’s co-operative at Mount Irvine will be of particular interest to guests at Top O’ Tobago. You can’t miss it because every afternoon from around 4:00-4:30pm you will see the fishermen selling their catch from the tables mounted next to the sea wall beside the beach and road. You won’t get fresher fish anywhere. Simply tell the fishermen what you want and they will fillet the fish, or chop it into steaks, at a price that will truly please you. Shoot back to the villa, slap it on the barbeque and you are almost guaranteed a meal to cherish.
The Arnos Vale Hotel is open for dinner, but has a poor reputation for catering and, if their beach bar prices are anything to go by, at charges far in excess of quality and service provided. The associated Arnos Vale Waterwheel is set in a wonderful romantic location and is capable of excellent catering, but again, recent reports have been very unfavourable and the restaurant seems to be closed more often than it is open. Even when you have booked a table, you are strongly advised to telephone before leaving for the restaurant to ensure that they are open.
A small local restaurant, Pete’s Restaurant, has opened in Plymouth within the past year. Reports are very mixed, but generally good. However, the restaurant is difficult to find. It is on the cliff tops overlooking Plymouth Back Bay near the recreation ground. However, the restaurant is located behind the owner’s house and is not clearly signposted, so finding it at night can be a challenge and the entry somewhat off-putting. However, we understand that it is well worth trying.
Fads Homestyle, on the way out of Plymouth, is a reasonable source of cheap local takeout food. A little further down the road is the newly-opened Hollywood Chinese Restaurant which is apparently proving quite popular. Other possibilities are Pele's Restaurant located above TJ’s Bar by the petrol (gas) station in the centre of Plymouth and PahJoe’s Bar on the Arnos Vale Road around Plymouth. There are a couple of local roti shops – the best one being close to Stumpy’s Grocery and Post Office.
Apart from these limited options, it is only a 15-20 minute drive to the half dozen or so excellent restaurants between the villages of Black Rock and Mount Pleasant.
Conclusion
The conclusion in our 2004 review stated…
“We absolutely loved Top O’ Tobago and I doubt that we will find another place that will ‘better’ it in terms of the sort of accommodation we enjoy the most, or in an environment that we enjoy more.”
Since writing that report, we have stayed at more than 30 other properties on Tobago, bringing the total to more than sixty. We doubt whether anyone else can genuinely claim to have stayed at as many Tobago hotels, inns, guest houses, apartments, cottages and villas. This gives us a unique 
perspective.
Of course having stayed at a property does not mean that it will be necessarily to everyone’s taste. Thank heavens! If that was the case, we would probably need to have already booked our next stay at Top O’ Tobago.
This is undoubtedly a very unique property. I can only repeat the sentiments expressed in our 2004 review and say that it is one of those places that we will always think of with exceptional fondness.
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