As arranged, Gemma Shaw arrived at the airport to meet us. It was still light, as we packed our bags into the boot of the car. A few minutes later, we were away from Crown Point, and Gemma pointed out "Pennysavers" supermarket. A few miles later, we turned left onto the Shirvan Road, soon to see the familiar names of restaurants that we had read about over the last few weeks on the Internet - The Shirvan Water Mill, Melange and MeShell's, as we passed the bend. Shortly after, a bus stop advertised "Papillion", at which point we turned left towards Buccoo. Only 20 yards or so later we turned right onto a small dirt track, next to a little green shack (that we later discovered to be the local's hairdresser's). Just 100 yards past the Golf Course, and left through Gemma's gate and we were there.
As we opened the car doors, we caught the amazing scent of the 'Ylang Ylang' tree under which we were parked. Apparently you can often smell it all around Mount Irvine! To the right of Gemma's own house, we followed stepping stones past tall ginger lillies, through trees covered with Orchids (that Gemma had propagated herself). The path opened up into a garden rich with Orange and Lemon trees, as well as many that we did not recognise. It was nearly dark, and the self catering apartment looked very inviting after the long plane trip.
Up a few wooden steps and on to the balcony, two large louvre doors opened outwards revealing a good sized room with double bed and Mosquito nets, and two double doors, one either side of the bed, leading to the wardrobe, shower and bathroom, and kitchenette respectively. Gemma had even placed some freshly picked tropical flowers in a vase on the table.
The kitchenette was basic, yet adequate. A two ring gas stove with oven (we used the rings but not the oven) running from a Gas bottle, which is typical of self catering near the sea in Tobago. The fridge was a little on the small side, though we didn't plan any banquets, but you did have to replace the beers as you used them. There were a couple of cold Caribs already in there, which was a nice touch. The shower unit was also fine, with warm or cold water settings, and a large fan with a speed control kept the air moving well. It seemed very good value for 50$US per night (not per person, but for the whole apartment!).
In the morning, we realised the real beauty of the location. My wife Claire had barely said "I wonder if we will see any humming birds whilst we are here", and a couple of them appeared, right next to our breakfast table, in a tree with yellow trumpet shaped flowers. A stroll of about 50 feet (on stepping stones) took us to the sea edge (actually a 30 foot cliff, so beware if you have unpredictable children) where tall bamboo stems rustled in the breeze. The view was amazing, and a hammock and some chairs were arranged so that you could take your time watching pelicans 'surfing' the waves.
This was the beginning of our first holiday in Tobago, in December 2001. Sea Edge was so quiet and away from the bustle of the hotels and major population that we were really able to relax. It was also a convenient location for all of the beaches. The nearest beach (Grange) was fine for a stroll and swim, but had no facilities, so we preferred a longer journey by car to Pigeon Point where Jack had his 4th birthday party (it was our first holiday here) and Mount Irvine beaches.
I discovered that Gemma doesn't really advertise outside of Tobago (I think that she leaves an advert in the post office, she has some leaflets printed), so in thanks for her hospitality, I offered to put a little web page together for her, which I have finally done, at:
http://www.holiday-tobago.co.uk
We are about to return for our fourth visit in January 2005, and as usual, will be staying in Gemma's back garden. After all, we can now take a holiday in Tobago for less than a package trip to Europe, so I know where we would rather be
Steve, Claire and Jack Fifield.