stay last week at the Sunset Valley Estate, aka Moms B+B

[Ernesto Blokosso]

After my wife and I had three nights at the Hilton, then three nights in the north at the Blue Waters in Speyside, we moved up to Englishman's Bay to a rented house called the Sunset Valley Estate, also known as Mom's Bed and Breakfast (although Mom doesn't really do this anymore). We stayed at this house for a full week and here is my review for others who may be considering this property...

First of all, the only thing I can say is DO IT. We had looked at the website for this property at tobagoestate.com, and the photos looked nice, sounded isolated, had views, nice pool, etc. But in no way did the site do this place any justice. I have never stayed somewhere with such spectacular views and magnificent setting. From this glorious vantage point up on the side of the hills that lead into the Tobago Forest Reserve, we figured we could see 50 miles out to sea (seemed like it), and the house has a 180 degree view of the sea... a truly sweeping view that was awe-inspiring at any time of day. We saw so many rainbows over the horizon that they began to seem redundant, watched the rain sweep in in small storms out to sea that passed over the tiny fishing boats circling around the Sisters Rocks.

The house was very airy and spacious. The rooms to sleep were nothing special, but everything was always spotless and clean, and all you had to do is open a double-door to remind you of the miles of sea outside. The other side of the house led up to a sharp, forested ridge atop the Tobago Forest Reserve. Nothing up there... just trees. You can only see two other houses from the property, and both far enough away to never inhibit us from skinny dipping in the 15 x 35 pool that was also spotless and always crystal ice blue and refreshing.

The birds... If you don't like birds, this is not the place for you. We saw and HEARD so many birds to make it seem almost comical. First of all, we are somewhat early risers (though not always) and is a good thing, because there are dozens of cocricos across the hillside, and hearing them all sing (if you can call it that) to each other, echoing in tandem across the valley, is an experience I will never forget. There were also dozens of these yellow-tail birds that made a gutteral whoop, then melodious music, then jerking flapping motion, all at once... There were the little green parrots all over the place that mate for life. There were boobies and pelicans out to sea. And there were many crowned mot mots that have to be one of the most beautiful creatures I have ever seen. And more, all right near the house. If you are a bird lover, this is paradise. We often didn't need our binoculars to have a great view of them.

The grounds... the house is set on 3 acres across a very steep hillside, and we freely walked the grounds and ate the fresh avocados, limes, and pummelos that were there for the picking. If only it had been the time of year for mangos, we could have eaten hundreds, and star apples too.

Mom and Pops... These are the caretakes who live on the property below the main part of the house which we rented. They are an American couple who have been in Tobago for 15 years and they were very accommodating and we enjoyed their company. They were very respectful of our privacy and we knew when they would be coming upstairs and knew where they were. Mom cleans every day, and did our laundry for us. She hates dirt, so needless to say, the place was always so clean. And Pops has some great stories to tell, and he is a hiker, and despite being 72, he took us a vigorous 3 hour jaunt through the forest reserve, him leading the way, clearing the path with his machete. He often was barefoot too. He also took us to the Highland Falls, where we hiked in and swam into the small canyon at the base of the falls, right underneath them.

All in all, I am writing too much. Obviously, I highly recommend this place, as it was always stunning, every corner of it. If you want remote and isolated and beautiful, this is it. (and the gorgeous beach at Englishman's Bay was only 5 minutes away).

Ernesto

[Nina C.]

I totally agree with you – we stayed at Mom’s Bed & Breakfast in Englishman’s Bay last year and the place is really magical. The location is perfect; up in the hills but only 5 minutes from the beach with the most spectacular views and close to Castara. You have a massive balcony with hammocks overlooking the rainforest, the tropical garden and the sea and it is a constant sea breeze so you don’t need a fan or air-condition + no mosquitoes!

Mom and pop treated us as family and cooked the most amazing breakfast every morning. For a small fee she would also cook delicious dinner + she often made us packed lunch, snacks and drinks free of charge. Pop took us walking to a secret private beach and to the rainforest in Parlatuvier. We felt like part of the family and they even sent us a Christmas card. We were also looked after by their friendly grounds man Simon George who also cooks at a brilliant restaurant near Bloody Bay.

The rooms were comfortable and clean with everything you need as well as daily laundry -again free of charge. They have a pool, extra outdoor showers and an extensive DVD and book library in the living area.

You can hire the whole place but we only booked one double room and were lucky to have the whole place to ourselves for one week – but then another couple arrived who never went out which meant sharing the balcony and small pool area as well as the living room and kitchen. You will also need a jeep as the place is quite remote and it is $100 US for one couple per night.

We had a lovely time and were treated really well and I cannot fault the location and the views, but as we need to save money we will stay somewhere cheaper in Castara when we go back in 2 weeks (hurrah!) but I would love to go and visit mom and pop again.