Paul's Culinary Adventures 2012

[Paul Tallet]

Hi everyone

I am posting some comments of my most recent experience in Tobago (February 2012).

... this is Paul’s overview of all the eateries he visited ...


Under the Almond Tree, Castara

This lovely restaurant is just next door to the Naturalist Beach Resort on the beach where I stayed with my trusty Carer, the beautiful and eloquent Dr Jones who, incidentally, likes very hot food.

We ate from here many times due to it’s proximity to us and we ended up doing take-aways and sitting in our veranda rather than carrying beer and wine down (they don’t serve alcohol).

Vera and her family are lovely people and Vera is a pretty mean cook (or should I say chef?) who makes, arguably, the best home made ice creams in Tobago.

I am aware that some people have complained about the service here and, obviously, I know them well and did the smiles years ago ... but please consider the fact that we had maybe 10 meals from this place and not one single meal was bad ... they were all delicious and freshly cooked.

A well run and dedicated family business ... you just need to get to know them, they are lovely and cook good food.

Cost ... Like most of Castara, a bit expensive but good value.


Cascreole, Castara

This place baffles me. I have had some really nice food here on occasions over the years but sometimes it can be disastrous and it is so sad because the people that run this place are really nice people and they could do a lot better considering the location of the Tree House right on the Beach.

This year I am afraid it was not good. We visited one afternoon for a drink but they had no beer or rum. Went back an hour later and they had beer and rum but no ice. Pre-booked dinner for the evening and it was pre-cooked and getting cold ... Not good.

I will try again on a future visit but this is a goldmine in one of the best locations of Tobago ... they really should do better.

Cost ... expensive.


Shirma’s, Castara

Ok, this place is good. It’s on the left as you go through Castara on the main road west to east.

Shirma mixes the best and cheapest Rum Punch in Castara ... and she does it with a smile.

On Friday nights she gets the gang in and they do a mean Barbecue and for just $40TT per person which is outrageously good value for Castara.

Highly recommended ... if Shirma took over the Cascreole she would make a mint. Castara ... you need to wake up and see what this mighty fine woman can do ... excellent business model.

Cost ... peanuts, excellent value.


Marguerites, Castara

I just love Marguerite. This is one of the longest established restaurants in Castara and she delivers good food consistently, especially when she is there.

Again, not an ideal location so the beachfront businesses should look at this as I mentioned for Shirma.

All of the staff here seem to have raised their game too.

Cost ... expensive again but you can rely on Marguerite.


The Coffee Shop, Castara

Opposite Marguerites.

New and refreshing ... this is the place for breakfasts. Saturday nights is a Barbecue and Steel Band. Dinner can be done but probably best to pre-book.

We spent several chilled out mornings here. Everybody knows that if they can’t find you somewhere then they will find you here.

It’s on the main road and the occasional passing car/lorry can be deafening, but that’s Tobago!

The coffee is great.

What we could not understand is that we never paid the same ... so breakfast for 2 could be as little as $65TT and as much as $109TT ... never got our heads around this but who cares!

Cost ... depends on the day ... smile!


Tanty’s Place, Charlottesville

Turn right at the petrol station and it’s on the right.

It says ... ‘Fish and chips with a difference’.

We passed by and saw a couple salivating over their food and they even suggested we come in and try.

OK ... next you have an OCD Clarence serving you with military precision ... he even gets cross if you move the table mats ... a lovely man nonetheless.

Right, so what is the difference?

Answer ... Massive ... and don’t even think about putting salt and vinegar on it ... the most unusual and tasty fish and chips I have ever had.

Go try this.

Cost ... reasonable.


Sharon & Phebe’s, Charlottesville

This is another longer term institution that I have visited over many years. Nice views over Charlottesville ... good for people watching.

We purchased a bottle of Sharon’s hot sauce ... she was visibly shocked about my Carer’s ability to consume vast quantities of this special sauce during our meal.

As always, a really nice meal ... didn’t try them but apparently the Prawns are the best.

Cost ... reasonable but I think the hot sauce was expensive (we bought a bottle).


Sunshine, Bloody Bay

Another restaurant that has been around for years.

We called in here after our rainforest tour with Newton George (review to follow).

This place has fantastic views over the rainforest canopy ... it’s as wild as hell and they do pretty good food too but it is worth checking when they are open.

Cost ... Reasonable.


Bago’s Bar, Pigeon Point Road, Crown Point

I am so happy to see that Shirley and Robert are back managing this little goldmine with fantastic views over Cable Bay and up the Pigeon Point strip.

Service ... brilliant.

Rum Punch ... brilliant.

Food ... it’s basically Burgers and Chips but I have to say that the Potato Wedges were the crispiest and tastiest I have had in a long time. The Burger was definitely a Burger (probably a steak!).

This is an excellent stop off before you visit Pigeon Point and start paying top dollar for the entrance fee and other facilities.

Costs ... Cheap and good value.


WYSIWYG, Pigeon Point Road, Crown Point

In view of recent complaints on this forum, whether justified or not justified, I tried my hardest to visit this place on several occasions but it was always closed.


Coco Reef, Crown Point

Allegedly the top resort in Tobago ... I treated my Carer to a day off and we spent the night here (I will post another comment on this in the Accommodation section).

The food was good, a wide variety, all self serve and you could eat as much as you liked ... I was astonished at the range of puddings and cakes available.

Breakfast was sublime ... this place is highly recommended for thin people that need to put on weight ... or, fatties, come on down for a good stuffing ... boy, what a place!!

The staff were brilliant too, especially when they realised we were staying in Castara and had just come for one night of pure debauchery ... smile, we had a great laugh at this place.

Costs ... erm, quite expensive but good value for people with hollow legs.


Mount Irvine Beach Resort Facility, Mount Irvine

Another long term and reliable institution at the west end of the beach away from the surfing side ... they know me here.

The beauty of this place is that you park the car right next to the beach and you can rent a sun bed which is brought to you ... order a nerve calming Rum Punch before you go for a good snorkel around the pristine reef ... sheer bliss.

The food is good too with a decent menu ... it’s not special, but good and the whole set up makes way for a very enjoyable beach day out ... over many years this has been my default option and there are even shower facilities so it’s an ideal place for the last day when you catch your flight.

Costs ... Average but worth every penny.


Fishpot, Grand Courland

This was recommended to me by Phil Bondie, so we tried it.

Oh Lordy, Phil, thank you for the recommendation.

The menu (apart from the fish) did not change but we knew what we wanted ... Cor! That Chicken Liver Pate starter had to be the best pate I have tasted in years ... when they weren’t watching I was licking the pot out.

We went for fish and it was Barracuda ... yum yum.

I shouldn’t criticise the menu because they actually had one but it is vast but doesn’t seem to change ... there were also a few undesirable individuals in or near this place but it’s a must go for anyone that wants a really good meal and I dare to think how successful this business would be in a better setting.

Cost ... a little expensive but very good food.


Kings Bay Cafe, Kings Bay

This is another of Phil’s recommendations.

It all depends on the ‘catch of the day’ ... this is the best cooked fish I have eaten in Tobago ... slightly undercooked but you are asked if you want it cooked more, no ... it was perfect for me.

Had a great time here with loads of myTobago people for a get-together ... I can post the group photos to you on request.

Cost ... really cheap for what you get.

Bring your own booze.


Boat Trips

We went on several trips ... Duck of Castara, King David (who also sub-contracted us out to Condo Tours).

Duck is very good but he hasn’t got a boat so he relies on his mates to supply a boat and it tends to be smaller and not as comfortable as other operators.

Nevertheless, Duck does a good trip and good food ... he did a nice barbecue at No Mans Land with a variety of fish and the obligatory ‘chicken of the sea’ had we failed to catch any of the fish!! ... oh and plenty of Rum Punch and Hard Wine ... excellent.

King David is also OK ... we had a bbq on Pirates Bay with Tuna and Mahi Mahi which was delicious ... no Rum Punch so we decided to go for a quickie in Sharon & Phebes after the bbq. They didn’t listen to our requests.

Then the tour with Condo.

I will do another post on these tours as I am only focusing on food here.

This was a large party of about 15 on a bigger boat with 3 crew (including the dude that runs the Coffee Shop in Castara).

The food was excellent and they even did a cheesy, yet impressive, presentation on No Man’s Land with palm leaves and a big table and made us queue for the food. Plenty of beer and Rum Punch although we ran out of the Rum Punch (which was my fault, of course).

The food was the best on this trip.


Summary

I think the best fish award should go to Kings Bay Cafe ... cooked to perfection.

The best starters award goes to the Fishpot ... amazing Chicken Liver Pate.

The best puddings award has to go to Coco Reef because they did so many of them. But if it applies to Ice Cream then Vera at the ‘Under the Almond Tree’ deserves the award.

The best chips award must go to Bagos, Crown Point.

The best consistency award (in terms of good food) is a very big 50/50 between Marguerites and Under the Almond Tree, both in Castara ... I hope they can share the cheap plastic trophy!

The best Rum Punch award, by a mile and served with a smile, is Shirma’s, Castara. Bago's is a distant second.

The best Coffee award goes to the Coffee Shop in Castara.

The best Wifi award also goes to the Coffee Shop, Castara.

The most surprising/unusual experience award goes to Tanty’s, Charlottesville.

I will do a post on my visit to Trinidad and the ‘Chicken Leg Sandwich’ ... yes folks, the most discerning Chicken Leg Connoisseurs can order authentic jaw breaking Chicken Leg Sandwiches ... right here!!

Overall, no food poisoning and few bad experiences and we did take risks.

Tobago has many restaurants that provide good food and excellent service ... you need to take risks as you would anywhere else in the world but I was impressed overall with the food and the service everywhere ... perhaps my smile had something to do with it  !!


I have more comments to come on Accommodation, Trips, Travel, People, Places ... these will come soon so please bear with me.

I hope this post helps.

Regards