Judging by the number of snorkelling and diving queries, posted in the activities section of the myTobago forum, Tobago is fast becoming THE dive destination for those wishing to experience some of the best reef dives and snorkelling in the Caribbean, whilst combining the relaxing atmosphere of a family or group holiday.
As preparation is everything, when it comes to getting the most out of your holiday, any advance information can be usefully employed. When it comes to choosing your base, accommodation, dive operators, type and nature of dive marks, species to expect and other handy hints and tips, planning – or the lack of it, can make the difference between a successful trip or a disaster.
As yet, there is no specific article on diving or snorkelling, for those needing information, to refer to. This is likely to be rectified, once someone qualified, volunteers to supply the text. For reasons of safety, it is vital that the information is not only accurate, but is balanced, given that what is an easy dive for an expert, could be challenging, or even lethal, to a novice.
Until such times as the myTobago site has its own dive reference section, perhaps a good book would be of help?
I think that I may have found such a book, in one of the Lonely Planet’s ‘Pisces’ range of diving and snorkelling paperbacks. This comprises of approx. 40 volumes, covering the sub-aquatic delights of places as diverse as Australia to Vanuatu.
Trinidad and Tobago have a book of their own and Diving and Snorkelling Trinidad and Tobago is an excellent introduction to the ‘top dive sites in the Caribbean’s twin nation paradise’
The 121 pages (excluding index) are divided into sections covering:-
· An overview of the history and geography of the islands
· Practicalities – climate, Getting there, getting around, money, what to bring, underwater photography, accommodations, dining / food and shopping.
· Activities – what to do, where to go and what to see.
· Diving – health and safety, pre-trip preparation, DAN, medical and recompression facilities, tips for evaluating a dive operator.
· Diving in T&T – certification, snorkelling and the Pisces rating system.
· Tobago Dive sites – 41 sites, in detail.
· Diving in Trinidad – 7 sites in detail.
· Marine life – including what to avoid.
· Diving conservation and awareness – EVERY visitor should read this.
· Listings – contact details for accommodation, diving services etc.
There is also a forward by the author, Lawson Woods, a photographer and diver with 40-plus years experience.
The first three sections of the book are, in effect, a mini guidebook, containing much useful information for the first-time visitor. Not as comprehensive as the main Lonely Planet or Rough Guide books, but sufficient to get by on, accompanied by lots of good photos and maps.
The next two sections provide general information and tips on diving and would apply to most dive site destinations, worldwide. That is not to say that these sections can be skipped, even by the experienced. An extremely useful set of Icons are introduced and explained. These are used throughout the following sections to indicate, for example, good snorkelling (a black spot, with a white snorkel emblem).
Strong currents (black spot, with white waves and arrow to right).
Strong surge (black spot, with white waves and arrows to left and right)
Poor visibility (black spot, with a pair of eyes in centre)
Shore dive (black spot, with white beach and parasol) – these sites can be accessed from the shore.
Drift dive (black spot, with white boat silhouette)
Marine preserve (black spot with white fish-shaped silhouette)
In all, there are 11 such icons, which are used to indicate the nature of each dive site. Some are used in isolation, whilst others are used in groups of up to five or six, where conditions vary, or are likely to be encountered, due to the variety of water conditions, topography and accessibility.
The Pisces rating system for dives and divers is also explained and this offers a really helpful introduction to each site and its suitability for Novice, Intermediate, or Advanced divers.
The definition of Novice is given as: one who should be accompanied by an instructor, divemaster or advanced diver on all dives. Has basic certification and who dives infrequently. Has no experience in these, or similar waters and who dives no deeper than 60ft (18m)
An Intermediate diver would be classed as one who: has logged between 25 and 100 dives, dives not deeper that 130ft (40m) and who has dived these or similar marks within the past 6 months.
Someone of Advanced skill and experience is described as: having advanced certification. Has logged over 100 dives and who has experience of these or similar waters, with the past 6 months.
The following sections are divided into groups of dive sites, starting with 15 marks around the Speyside area. Bookends, Innerspace, Black jack Hole, Japanese Gardens and Angel Reef are world-renowned and lesser-known sites, such as Spiny Bay, Lucifer’s Bay and Sleeper are also covered. Each site is given its Novice to Advanced rating, method of access (mainly by boat), range of depths, location and Pisces icons to indicate water clarity, tidal influences etc.
Some superb photographs give a realistic impression of the ‘flora and fauna’ with the stars of the show, being the groups of Manta and the famous Brain Coral at Kelston Drain.
The Northern tip of Tobago is then explored. An area known as the St. Giles Islands, is famous for the London Bridge dive, but Washeroo, Marble Island, Rocky Mountains (High and Low), Sail Rock and South St. Giles (a spectacular drift dive) are also detailed.
Moving in an anti-clockwise direction to Man O’ War bay, Four sites are covered, most of which are rated as suitable for Novices, with good snorkelling at all four.
The isolated submarine pinnacles of the Sisters Rocks and their lesser relatives, the Brothers Rocks, combined with Bloody Bay and Englishman’s Bay are grouped in an area described as ‘Central North Coast dives sites’
These range from Novice (Englishman’s & Bloody Bays), to Advanced, in the case of the Brothers and Sisters Rocks.
Also in this section, sites that are well known, as novice to intermediate level, include Culloden (Footprints eco-resort), Arnos Vale, Mount Irvine Wall, Buccoo Channel and Angel Reef. The only site, in this section of coastline, to be given an advanced rating is the Maverick (previously the Federal Maple, then the Scarlet Ibis), a wreck dive created when the ship, a roll-on, roll-off ferry, was scuttled to create an artificial reef in 1997. The soft corals, sponges, hydroids and fish species that have taken up residence appear to approve of their new surroundings and this is favourite dive for those with the requisite experience.
The Pigeon and Crown Point areas are where most of the dive centres are based, at the Southern end of Tobago. These operations have several sites within a short distance from their moorings, in the Columbus Passage – the channel that separates Tobago and Trinidad. This also marks the boundary between the Caribbean and the Atlantic, so visibility can be limited and drift dives predominate. Diver’s Dream, Diver’s Thirst, Flying Reef and Cove Reef, all have intermediate to advanced ratings, whilst Ketchup Reef is rated suitable for novices and is often used for training dives and by experienced snorkellers.
The section on dive sites on Trinidad is less comprehensive, with the area around the Bocas Islands (West of Port of Spain) being allocated six site descriptions, including the Angostera Wreck, Favourite Point and Macqueripe Bay area (Stingray Stretch as it is better known), also being reviewed.
Conclusion.
Diving & Snorkelling – Trinidad and Tobago, published by Lonely Planet Publications Pyt Ltd. (ISBN 0 86442 777

copyright Lonely Planet 2000.
US$15.95 - UK£9.99
Lawson Woods has done an excellent job of combining informative text with wonderful photography, to produce what is probably the best guide to the Islands’ wealth of marine treasures.
I have found it to be a frequent source of reference and accurate information.
An absolute must have, for anyone intending to dip a toe in the water around Tobago.
Highly recommended.
Availablilty.
Most good dive shops should be able to order it, as would most good book shops.
You can also order, on-line at
http://www.lonelyplanet.com
Click - LP Shop
Activity/interest guides
Pisces Diving and snorkelling guides
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