myTobago – your questions, review and comment about Tobago

I know there have already been a lot of recommendations for this restaurant in Charlotteville, but we had a really fun evening there 10 days ago, which I thought I should share with you all.

We'd already had a good fried fish lunch there earlier in the week, and we decided to go back for supper a couple of days before coming home. We arrived about 7.15pm and Sharon, and her daughter Phebe, were in their usual fun form, and the place as about half full. There were strings of pretty lights on, and a happy buzz of conversation as we ordered our 'set meal', which was excellently cooked and very good value. While we were eating we'd heard the odd snatch of drumming coming from the street below the restaurant, and we thought some locals might be showing off a few riffs on some waste bins or seat backs...

We'd just finished our iced yoghurt and settled down to another glass of Stag when the most FANTASTIC drum rhythms broke out from the street - virtually everyone in the restaurant shot over to the balcony to see a dozen locals across the street playing their hearts out on some very curious percussion instruments. I can't praise the playing enough - these guys were terrific; if anyone knows the start of Paul Simon's album the 'Rhythm of the Saints' then you'll get the idea [those were Cameroonian drummers, I think, but the sound and quaility of performance in Charlotteville that night were similar].

They played for over an hour, and we stayed on to listen. There were old and young performers, playing drums ranging from a bass through bongos to tin 'snares', assorted rattles and scrapers and, most importantly, some big bamboo poles, 8 feet long and of varying thickness from a few inches to about 6", which they banged on the floor and hit with sticks.

We've since discovered that this was the Charlotteville Tamboo Bamboo Band - Tamboo was developed in T&T in the 18th century when african drums were banned because of their 'subversive' influence. They were practising for the Tobago carnival competition, and I was very pleased but not surprised to see on a local newspaper website today that they'd actually gone on to win the J'Ouvert section last week in Scarborough!

Does anyone know if it's possible to buy a CD of this sort of music?

I've been meaning to post our recent experience of Sharon and Phebe's. We were visiting Charlotteville on what the locals told us was one of the hottest days of the year (in April) and wanted somewhere cool, shady and confortable for lunch.

Sharon and Phebe's ticked all the boxes! We had the most wonderful fresh juicy "shrimp" (king prawns to most of us!) with respectively herb/garlic and lemon sauces. This came with a great selection of local accompaniments - and a couple of ice cold Caribs. Sitting on the balcony in the breeze, eating wonderful food watching life go by - what could be better!!

Oh yes - the service was excellent and so friendly. We were only sorry that we couldn't visit one night for dinner.

Jane

My mom and I just returned from a wonderful holiday in Tobago--we stayed at the Blue Waters Inn, which we loved, and had a fantastic time. The one really negative experience we had was at Sharon & Phebe's, which I take to be quite unusual, given all the rave reviews I've read before and since our trip.

We were in Charlotteville one afternoon around 2pm and decided to give Sharon & Phebe's a try for a late lunch. We walked up to the dining area, which was about half full, but we were the only tourists there at the time. We sat down and noticed that everyone in the restaurant was staring at us--something we normally don't mind, as this does happen when you're the only tourist in an establishment!--but after about 10 minutes of feeling like we were under a spotlight--and no one had actually said anything to us--it felt a little uncomfortable.

I finally went up to the bar and waited... and waited... and finally, after seeing that everyone seemed to be walking in and out of the kitchen with their plates, I stuck my head in and just asked whom we needed to order with. At this point, we were used to Tobagonians being a bit reserved, but we usually found that they would return the favor if we were friendly and offered some "thank yous". The one man who finally acknowledged me was the only truly rude person I think we came across through our entire stay.

After trying to order a few times and being told brusquely that they were out of everything, we ordered flying fish sandwiches (the only thing left to order) and then were told that they wouldn't serve it to us unless we ordered a full dinner plate. The man told us that they wouldn't get paid enough for it if we only ordered sandwiches. Finally, we just thanked him for his help and left.

I was really surprised by this, since every comment I've ever read about Sharon & Phebe's has been positive. We may have caught them on an off-day, at an off-time, or perhaps they'd just had a bad encounter with another tourist group (?), but are we the only ones who have had a bad experience here?

Hi Cameron

What a dissapointment. I confess that when Sharon is not around (which seems to be evenings only) standards do seem to drop in our experience. I always found service wanting at lunchtimes, when there seemed to be just two young girls on duty, but never to the degree you reported.

You say the restaurant was half full with locals? You also mention a man serving - I dont know whether its significant, but I've never seen a man working in that restaurant. No, from everything you say it just makes me wonder if you happened upon some sort of local meeting and they didn't want anyone else around.

It will be interesting to hear if anyone else has had any similar experiences.

Hi,

in my experience, Gail's restaurant at the other edge of Charlotteville offered much better value, because the atmosphere was much friendlier there and the cooking was fine. I have been there every evening for dinner.

Concerning Sharon and Phebe, it was o.k. for a snack in the afternoon, but sometimes strange people were hanging around. I do not know how they are related to the restaurant, but e.g. the Tobagonian who is married to a Swiss woman (I think he is the owner of the small hut overlooking Speyside) and his friends didn't contribute to a relaxed atmosphere.

I cast my vote for Gail!

Achim