Castara Restaurants
Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 4:04 pm
Well, it's taken me three weeks, but this is the last of the reviews I've been meaning to post since our return.
During our two weeks in Castara, we ate at (I think) all the main eating establishments, with the exception of the Boathouse, which was closed for the duration (Sharon and Brenton - please try to be open for us next year!).
We had our first evening meal at Clay Kitchen, which was the nearest to our accommodation and was just opening up when we arrived. I understand that the owner was away at the time, but it was being run by a very pleasant woman and her daughter. The ambience was fine, there was a choice of two main dishes, chicken or seafood. We were served a bowl of corn soup to start. The food was nice, but nothing special. So far, so good, until the bill came - over 600TT or £60!! Foolishly we hadn't asked the price, but the seafood that we had chosen was 250TT a portion. The chicken would have been 100TT. We were quite shocked, but paid vowing not to return. The other couple there that evening were similarly surprised.
The only other bad experience we had was at Cafe Delight where we stopped for lunch (and only because Vera opposite had run out of roti). The menu was fairly unexciting, mainly sandwiches and fries. The staff weren't particularly welcoming and we waited for probably an hour for a very disappointing sandwich, tiny portion of fries and a lettuce leaf that couldn't quite be described as a salad. Such a shame, as it is a lovely spot, but perhaps better to stick to drinks rather than food.
We only ate at Cascreole one evening and L & H one lunchtime, but both served good local food at a very reasonable price. The treehouse at Cascreole is a great place to have a sunset Carib, or evening supper.
We had a couple of evening meals and one lunch at D'Almond Tree, more usually referred to as Vera's. Vera's lunchtime rotis are excellent, and very good value. Her evening meals were very good too - between us we sampled her shrimp, fish, chicken and goat curry, all worth trying. I did ask for ice-cream (see Paul T review), but as it was close season she only had neopolitan, but it certainly made a nice refreshing end to a spicy supper. Vera's juices are very nice, but she will allow you to bring your own beer if you prefer.
We ate at Marguerite's a couple of times too. Slightly more varied menu than Vera's but also very good. We sampled the lamb one night (saw it recommended here) and we weren't disappointed - my husband thought it was one of the best local meals he had during our visit. Her accompaniments are a bit different too - the mango salsa was lovely. The local wines are a bit sweet but make a change from soft drinks.
It should be noted (particularly if comparing to Clay Kitchen) that all of the main courses at these restaurants cost less than 100TT, and were as good if not better than the food we were served at CK.
A completely different eating experience is to be found if you eat with Adam at Sandcastles. Anyone who hangs out at Wallace's is bound to come across Adam. (If you are in Castara, you must go to Wallace's rum shop for an evening Carib.) His restaurant and bar are still at the planning stage, but he manages to cater for small parties on his patio at the house above the village. We ate there twice - first time we had the excellent local snapper, second time Adam sourced the most enormous lobsters for us. He even researched Rick Stein to find out how to cook an octopus brought in by the fishermen - it made the most delicious starter. Now, this isn't going to be as cheap as eating in the local restaurants, but the food is fresh and almost all is sourced in Castara, the accompaniments make a nice change from the usual creole fare - baked cheesy potatoes, greek-style salad, caramelised corn cob, etc. The portions are enormous (don't have lunch if you're going there for supper). And he keeps an excellent bottle of Chilean red in his cellar. Adam, Ria and baby Elizabeth make you feel at home, it's more like being entertained by friends. We made a point of having our last night meal there, as a special occasion. (You do have to book in advance, so that Adam can source the ingredients.)
Outside Castara we had a roti lunch at the cafe at Englishman's Bay which was cheap and good. We had lunch at Sharon and Pheeb's in Charlotteville - quite nice but a bit expensive for what we had, perhaps living on their reputation? We had a few lunches between dives at Blue Waters Inn, which were good and filling and just what we needed at the time.
Final mention must go to Big Mama's cake. We met Big Mama by accident when we gave her a lift down the hill from the lookout point above Bloody Bay to her house in the village. We bought a couple of pieces of her homemade cake and it really was excellent. The fruit cake is like the richest, darkest Christmas cake, but richer and darker! And the other varieties we tried were good too. You can find her either at the lookout point, or at her little stall by the road as you come down the hill, before Bloody Bay village and the turning to Parlatuvier.
I'm sure I'll remember something else after I've hit 'Submit', but this is probably long enough for now.
Jo x
During our two weeks in Castara, we ate at (I think) all the main eating establishments, with the exception of the Boathouse, which was closed for the duration (Sharon and Brenton - please try to be open for us next year!).
We had our first evening meal at Clay Kitchen, which was the nearest to our accommodation and was just opening up when we arrived. I understand that the owner was away at the time, but it was being run by a very pleasant woman and her daughter. The ambience was fine, there was a choice of two main dishes, chicken or seafood. We were served a bowl of corn soup to start. The food was nice, but nothing special. So far, so good, until the bill came - over 600TT or £60!! Foolishly we hadn't asked the price, but the seafood that we had chosen was 250TT a portion. The chicken would have been 100TT. We were quite shocked, but paid vowing not to return. The other couple there that evening were similarly surprised.
The only other bad experience we had was at Cafe Delight where we stopped for lunch (and only because Vera opposite had run out of roti). The menu was fairly unexciting, mainly sandwiches and fries. The staff weren't particularly welcoming and we waited for probably an hour for a very disappointing sandwich, tiny portion of fries and a lettuce leaf that couldn't quite be described as a salad. Such a shame, as it is a lovely spot, but perhaps better to stick to drinks rather than food.
We only ate at Cascreole one evening and L & H one lunchtime, but both served good local food at a very reasonable price. The treehouse at Cascreole is a great place to have a sunset Carib, or evening supper.
We had a couple of evening meals and one lunch at D'Almond Tree, more usually referred to as Vera's. Vera's lunchtime rotis are excellent, and very good value. Her evening meals were very good too - between us we sampled her shrimp, fish, chicken and goat curry, all worth trying. I did ask for ice-cream (see Paul T review), but as it was close season she only had neopolitan, but it certainly made a nice refreshing end to a spicy supper. Vera's juices are very nice, but she will allow you to bring your own beer if you prefer.
We ate at Marguerite's a couple of times too. Slightly more varied menu than Vera's but also very good. We sampled the lamb one night (saw it recommended here) and we weren't disappointed - my husband thought it was one of the best local meals he had during our visit. Her accompaniments are a bit different too - the mango salsa was lovely. The local wines are a bit sweet but make a change from soft drinks.
It should be noted (particularly if comparing to Clay Kitchen) that all of the main courses at these restaurants cost less than 100TT, and were as good if not better than the food we were served at CK.
A completely different eating experience is to be found if you eat with Adam at Sandcastles. Anyone who hangs out at Wallace's is bound to come across Adam. (If you are in Castara, you must go to Wallace's rum shop for an evening Carib.) His restaurant and bar are still at the planning stage, but he manages to cater for small parties on his patio at the house above the village. We ate there twice - first time we had the excellent local snapper, second time Adam sourced the most enormous lobsters for us. He even researched Rick Stein to find out how to cook an octopus brought in by the fishermen - it made the most delicious starter. Now, this isn't going to be as cheap as eating in the local restaurants, but the food is fresh and almost all is sourced in Castara, the accompaniments make a nice change from the usual creole fare - baked cheesy potatoes, greek-style salad, caramelised corn cob, etc. The portions are enormous (don't have lunch if you're going there for supper). And he keeps an excellent bottle of Chilean red in his cellar. Adam, Ria and baby Elizabeth make you feel at home, it's more like being entertained by friends. We made a point of having our last night meal there, as a special occasion. (You do have to book in advance, so that Adam can source the ingredients.)
Outside Castara we had a roti lunch at the cafe at Englishman's Bay which was cheap and good. We had lunch at Sharon and Pheeb's in Charlotteville - quite nice but a bit expensive for what we had, perhaps living on their reputation? We had a few lunches between dives at Blue Waters Inn, which were good and filling and just what we needed at the time.
Final mention must go to Big Mama's cake. We met Big Mama by accident when we gave her a lift down the hill from the lookout point above Bloody Bay to her house in the village. We bought a couple of pieces of her homemade cake and it really was excellent. The fruit cake is like the richest, darkest Christmas cake, but richer and darker! And the other varieties we tried were good too. You can find her either at the lookout point, or at her little stall by the road as you come down the hill, before Bloody Bay village and the turning to Parlatuvier.
I'm sure I'll remember something else after I've hit 'Submit', but this is probably long enough for now.
Jo x
This attitude is why I prefer to fish, and cook, for myself. If anyone of the good people of this website is in Castara during december 3-12, do pop in and we´ll see what I can do if the fishing has been good.
