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Just returned, alas - our initial thoughts

Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2003 1:23 pm
by Barry
Finally back home after two weeks in paradise. The first family holiday where we have unanimously agreed that it was too short. How many times do we think “Yes, it is lovely here, but I am looking forward getting home for something or other”. Not this time - we simply weren’t ready to leave. We actually felt a sense of sadness as the plane lifted away from that friendly little island. The climate, the scenery, the wildlife, the food and the gentle, relaxed and happy nature of the people - all exceeded our expectations.

As soon as we set foot on the island (or more precisely once we had negotiated the dour passage through immigration) we experienced the warmth of the islanders. We had hired our vehicle from Sheppy via Yes Tourism and, due to the late but very welcome addition of our eldest daughter to our party, we could not fit five people plus suitcases into the car. Her decision to bring the bulk of her wardrobe was unfortunate – I’m sure there was even a duffle coat in one suitcase. Not a problem though, Sheppy simply put all the suitcases into his own car and drove with us to our villa – imagine this on the Hertz counter at Miami International. He really is a very nice guy. More on Sheppy and the villa in the relevant sections.

Another example of the thoughtful nature of the people. I was popping out to gather essential supplies (rum, beer etc) at the wonderfully named Black Rock Supermarket and spotted some seabird activity on the beach just before MT Irvine. Is it Grange beach, not sure? I got out of the car to check if there might be decent fishing and was hailed by a passing driver who had screeched to a halt on the opposite side of the road. Which reminds me, whether you are American or British you will have no problem getting used to driving in Tobago as they normally drive on both sides of the road. It’s a sort of pothole dependant thing. The local driver advised me to get to Turtle Beach fast as there was a Giant Leatherback laying eggs there – at two in the afternoon. I rushed back to the villa and herded the wet, costume clad family out of the pool and into the car and sped off for the beach. We made it - and what a wonderful spectacle, we were all moved by the whole experience. The kindness of the Tobagonian whose name I will never know; to see such an incredible creature, oblivious to the encircling crowd, lay eggs and then finally make its exhausted way back to the sea; the twist of fate that resulted in my path crossing that of our benevolent messenger.

One thing I must add is that the whole spectacle was slightly marred by a thoughtless moron who, I am embarrassed to say, represented the worst of Brits abroad. He lay in the path of the beautiful creature as it attempted to return to the sea. He was taking pictures and refused to move even when the poor turtle stopped when it realised he was there. Every spectator implored him to move but he stoically ignored them. I couldn’t make out whether he was drunk, drugged or just stupid. In the end local tour guide Frankie walked up to him and suggested he move. No initial reaction but I think Frankie said something quietly that did the trick. There would have been no shortage of volunteers had it turned ugly. I hope, whoever you are, you read this and feel ashamed of your disgraceful actions. Not for the first time, I was ashamed to be English. I would ask anyone who is lucky enough to witness such an incredible sight to please respect these rare and magnificent creatures. They have been using Turtle beach for 200 million years – it belongs to them, not you.

Image

There were numerous examples of hospitality and kindness from the local people and we felt safer and more comfortable than we have anywhere in the world. Where else would small children flag down a passing stranger for a lift home from school?

Having visited many Caribbean islands in the past I have yet to discover anywhere that can compare to this magical island. Time hasn’t forgotten Tobago, it has simply left it untainted by the trappings of commercialism and greed that afflict many other beautiful locations. There are many more things I would like to talk about and, should anyone be interested I will post reviews of the places we visited, our accommodation and the restaurants we tried in the next couple of days.

I would like to add finally that our holiday experience was undoubtedly enhanced by the wealth of information that was available on this site. Thanks once again Steve.

Barry and Family

Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2003 1:40 pm
by Steve Wooler
Barry & Family

Your wonderful post is what myTobago is all about – no hype, no bullxxxx and just plain unadulterated balanced informative personal opinion. Thank you!!!

Family holidays can be a strain – I remember the problems when our four were teenagers only too well. Finding a destination that satisfies everyone is not easy. I’m delighted that your family unanimously agreed that your holiday was too short. Without wishing to be patronising, it strikes me that you must have a well-balanced family. There’s not exactly a great preponderance of games arcades or adventure parks in Tobago!

Please, please post reports on the places you visited, your accommodation, restaurants visited and any other aspects of your holiday. Reports like yours are exactly what readers are looking for, so even if they endorse every word said by others, constant confirmation or contradiction are the things that make this site worthwhile.

Thanks again.

Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2003 8:47 pm
by Karen Roberts
Barry, it gives me such joy to read on your report about your experience in Tobago. Tobago is a lovely place where you can be at peace, the quiet and tranquilty is so serene and i don't think you will find the friendly atmosphere anywhere else.

Am i being bias :D maybe but happyly so. I love to hear people talk about sweet Tobago.

I do hope you return pretty soon :D

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2003 8:58 pm
by Nick Lambert
Sometimes it's hard to be an turtle: No question, what Barry reported about the behaviour of some ignorant guy down there on the beach is absolutely unacceptable. But on the other hand: Who took the picture in front and - as it seems - very close of/to the egg-laying turtle? Doesn't she have stress enough?
Respect to nature means to me to give her space and keep distance- in front, aside & and behind!
Nick

Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2003 8:26 am
by Barry
Nick,

The picture was taken by me - without flash - using maximum zoom at a distance prescribed by a local wild life expert who was at the site. She pretty much took charge of the situation and everyone obeyed her instructions - almost everyone anyway. The turtle was oblivious to the gathered crowd who all, with the obvious exception, kept their distance. I believe there is a world of difference between mindlessly blocking her escape path and taking a few snaps from a respectful distance.

Having said that of course, you do have a point. In a ideal world these creatures would be able to lay their eggs in complete seclusion, well away from the wildlife Paparazzi. But what is the solution - close the beaches during the breeding season? This does happen in Turkey, certain areas are cordoned off, but I couldn't image such measures being enforceable or practical in Tobago. What do other people think?

Turtle soup

Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2003 12:52 pm
by Steve Pitts
Hi Barry
An emotive subject, but one which is becoming increasingly relevant with some negative aspects of tourism.

If we do not respect the Island's people, their culture, beliefs and integrity, along with the wildlife and the environment, Tobago will all too soon end up like every other mass tourism destination.... Ruined.

We have a responsiblity to ensure that we have a minimal impact on these facets which make Tobogo so special to us all. Just because we have sufficient wealth to impose ourselves on the island for a short period, it does not give us the right to be insensitive.

The example of the moron and the turtle just shows how some people are still too wrapped up in themselves to appreciate the uniqueness and beauty of nature, even if it does us the honour of allowing us to witness it's wonders at close range.

I don't mean to preach to the converted; you displayed restraint and courtesy to this wonderful animal. I hope it will forgive us humans for the small minority who abused her rights. Hopefuly, she will return again and be welcomed with the respect that she and her kind are entitled to.

It may be an over-used edit but 'take only photographs and leave only footprints' is one of the soundest pieces of guidence we travellers can adhere to.

By the way, does anyone know what happens to the eggs. I have heard that they are collected and redistributed on more secluded beaches where the risk of being damaged is lessened.
I hope to witness turtles myself one day. Until then, your photo is much appreciated.

Regards
Steve