As soon as we set foot on the island (or more precisely once we had negotiated the dour passage through immigration) we experienced the warmth of the islanders. We had hired our vehicle from Sheppy via Yes Tourism and, due to the late but very welcome addition of our eldest daughter to our party, we could not fit five people plus suitcases into the car. Her decision to bring the bulk of her wardrobe was unfortunate – I’m sure there was even a duffle coat in one suitcase. Not a problem though, Sheppy simply put all the suitcases into his own car and drove with us to our villa – imagine this on the Hertz counter at Miami International. He really is a very nice guy. More on Sheppy and the villa in the relevant sections.
Another example of the thoughtful nature of the people. I was popping out to gather essential supplies (rum, beer etc) at the wonderfully named Black Rock Supermarket and spotted some seabird activity on the beach just before MT Irvine. Is it Grange beach, not sure? I got out of the car to check if there might be decent fishing and was hailed by a passing driver who had screeched to a halt on the opposite side of the road. Which reminds me, whether you are American or British you will have no problem getting used to driving in Tobago as they normally drive on both sides of the road. It’s a sort of pothole dependant thing. The local driver advised me to get to Turtle Beach fast as there was a Giant Leatherback laying eggs there – at two in the afternoon. I rushed back to the villa and herded the wet, costume clad family out of the pool and into the car and sped off for the beach. We made it - and what a wonderful spectacle, we were all moved by the whole experience. The kindness of the Tobagonian whose name I will never know; to see such an incredible creature, oblivious to the encircling crowd, lay eggs and then finally make its exhausted way back to the sea; the twist of fate that resulted in my path crossing that of our benevolent messenger.
One thing I must add is that the whole spectacle was slightly marred by a thoughtless moron who, I am embarrassed to say, represented the worst of Brits abroad. He lay in the path of the beautiful creature as it attempted to return to the sea. He was taking pictures and refused to move even when the poor turtle stopped when it realised he was there. Every spectator implored him to move but he stoically ignored them. I couldn’t make out whether he was drunk, drugged or just stupid. In the end local tour guide Frankie walked up to him and suggested he move. No initial reaction but I think Frankie said something quietly that did the trick. There would have been no shortage of volunteers had it turned ugly. I hope, whoever you are, you read this and feel ashamed of your disgraceful actions. Not for the first time, I was ashamed to be English. I would ask anyone who is lucky enough to witness such an incredible sight to please respect these rare and magnificent creatures. They have been using Turtle beach for 200 million years – it belongs to them, not you.
There were numerous examples of hospitality and kindness from the local people and we felt safer and more comfortable than we have anywhere in the world. Where else would small children flag down a passing stranger for a lift home from school?
Having visited many Caribbean islands in the past I have yet to discover anywhere that can compare to this magical island. Time hasn’t forgotten Tobago, it has simply left it untainted by the trappings of commercialism and greed that afflict many other beautiful locations. There are many more things I would like to talk about and, should anyone be interested I will post reviews of the places we visited, our accommodation and the restaurants we tried in the next couple of days.
I would like to add finally that our holiday experience was undoubtedly enhanced by the wealth of information that was available on this site. Thanks once again Steve.
Barry and Family
maybe but happyly so. I love to hear people talk about sweet Tobago.
