Our first visit to Tobago...Castara..a different view?

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Paul Tallet
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Post by Paul Tallet »

Well said, Adam ... I could not agree more.


Paul
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Steve Wooler
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Post by Steve Wooler »

Hi Adam

Well said! I couldn't agree with you more and look forward to meeting you next January when we shall be spending five days in Castara.
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David Watkins
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Post by David Watkins »

Hear, hear,
WE are guests when we visit paradise,and it is up tio us to earn our welcome by approaching first.The wonderful people on this island are not there just for us ....... they live there.So have respect smile and your smile will be returned 1000fold!!!!!!
David
Lotta

Post by Lotta »

Hi Joana,

We are a swedish couple planning our first visit to Tobago in May. We have had a hard time to decide where to stay - in Castara (which have sounded great until now) or in Charlotteville.

We had more or less decided to go to Castara (we have read so much about the village that we value - like friendly people - until now) but according to you - it don´t seem to be such a great place after all.

Different people seem to have different opinions.

You describe everything that we _do not_ want on our first visit to Tobago - I am grateful that you have shared a different picture of Castara.

Still, we would like to visit Castara during our stay on Tobago, but maybe/probably for a daytrip only.

Lotta
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Paul Tallet
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Post by Paul Tallet »

Lotta

I cannot imagine that Charlottesville would be any different to Castara in terms of the people other than that Charlottesville is a much more highly populated town and therefore it is probably a less 'close knit' community (i.e.; you may go a little more unnoticed).

As Castara is such a small community it is very difficult indeed to avoid mixing with the people that live there ... I love them dearly and have swum, fished and limed with lots of them.

I receive the impression that some contributors on this string expect to be treated nicely ... UNCONDITIONALLY ... no way ... as in all places and with all people, a little mutual respect goes a long way.

In this respect, whether you go to Charlottesville, Castara or Outer Mongolia ... it is really down to the visitors to these places to take the initiative and be polite to their hosts ... it is not much to ask ... and should make for a really good holiday.

Nevertheless, I really hope you enjoy your stay and I am sure you will gain your own impression when you visit the beautiful Bay of Castara ... please report back after your holiday.

Have fun


Paul
Lotta

Post by Lotta »

I do prefectly agree about the mutual respect.

But that doesn't mean it is OK to give different prices to different people in the way Joana describes. It is one thing to give someone a lower price - "special for you" - (which means that other guests get a higher price of course...) but the feeling that you get o higher price, because of the color of your skin or your nationality or being a tourist doen't feel right. Not for me.

I have travelled through South East Asia and never felt that I was't welcome, never felt I was treated different than the local people. We have been treated the _same_.

As a tourist/guest in any country one can not expect to be treated any _better_ than the local people, but - again - mutual respect goes both ways.

We will go to Tobago in May/early June to have our own experince, both from Castara and Charlotteville, and I promise I will report back to you.
Lotta
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Post by Paul Tallet »

Hang on a minute ...

If I am happy with the price I pay for a meal, that's fine by me even if others are charged 50% less ... I can be the judge of that for myself.

If you look at the earnings that most people receive in Tobago, that makes a meal at 50% of the tourist/white/whatever price more expensive for them than it is for me in real terms ... anyway I appreciate that this would not happen everywhere.

I am not uncomfortable about being discrimated against either, they have had their fair share of it and I can live with it.

I won't go into Asia otherwise we will go on until the cows come home.

Please do not let these issues spoil your holiday. Go with an open mind and enjoy.

Regards

Paul
Wanda

Post by Wanda »

Wow what an interesting trail of posts this has been!!
We have visited Tobago 4 times now, (just returned from trip 4) and love it unconditionally.

We have met and made friends with some lovely people on Tobago, their warmth and sense of fun is wonderful. However, everyone is different and to some we tourists are a nuisance. But we must remember that tourism in Tobago is still relatively new for a lot of people especially the further away from the Crown Point/Scarborough area you go. And why should the locals go out of their way to meet and greet us, we are on holiday whilst they are having to work and take care of their families, often with very little money?

I too get upset by straving dogs and cats, but the sight of children without shoes and very elderly people who clearly do not have much to live on upsets me more (both of which we have seen many times on Tobago).

The fact that the minimum wage on Tobago is 8TT an hour, (that is less than £1), maybe gives us some clue as to why local restaurants charge the tourists more that the local clientele. We are happy to pay these 'inflated' rates which are still very cheap when translated back into sterling. We don't feel discriminated against, we feel lucky that we have enough money to travel to far flung places like Tobago and we are more than happy to contribute to the local economy by paying a little more for a meal or a drink and leaving a decent tip for the waiter/waitress.

Wanda
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Brian Taylor
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Post by Brian Taylor »

some comments:
1. different prices at Marguarites local cuisine.
i showed her all the comments made here and she was shocked. she went back to her restaurant right away to straighten things out. she still might charge locals 10TT$ (1pound sterling) less for a box of food because she don't want to make the mistake that many restaurants make in forgetting about the locals and selling the food for a price thay can't afford. if she charge evryone so low, she could close her restaurant one time. when you shop in a supermarket here you will be surprised about the prices there. almost european level and there are not many other wholesales to buy food cheaper in big bunches like we know it.
2. kids without shoes.
all the kids i know have shoes at home but would not wear them. i did the same when i was a kid, even living in a big city. summer is no-shoe-time. and here is always summer. i even have to remind my husband (brian) sometimes not to forget his shoes home!
3.the elderly people.
they sit on a wall and watch the street all day. the chat with someone passing and thats what they do. i don't think they are unhappy about that. other than beeing in home for the age most elderly live with their families and do what all tobagonians love to do in their spare time:LIME!
4. cant agree more to what adam wrote!

finally i think all future visitors should not get scared away by one report of one person. many people wrote down positive and negative reports about their experiences. i feel it just shows our different angles. just come here and have a look, have a chat with the locals, the kids in the street and the elderly sitting on their balkony watching you pass. have a drink with them and take your time to find out whats really going on and sometimes look behing the cover....

have all a wonderful time, in our fishing villages or in the all inclusive hotels. everyone where it suits him.... :D :D :D
steph
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Post by Paul Tallet »

Ooops ... I hope this string has not led to an increase in the price of food for the locals at Marguarites ... did I read that right?

If so ... now they are even worse off !

Good point, Brian, about the supermarkets ... another point I forgot.

Paul
Lotta

Post by Lotta »

You have a good point there - I have no problem with supporting the local people while visiting their Tobago.

I suppose I was a little disillusioned because I had this picture about Castara like the friendlies place one can imagine... with no starving dogs and everyone with a happy smile on their face...

I suppose I was naive - shame on me : ) . Anyway, I would love to go to Castara to see this village and meet its people and make my own experience.

Lotta
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Post by Paul Tallet »

Yo ... Lotta ... everyone on the string is simply making their point ... you are not naive, I can tell that you care and that you like good people.

Lotta will have a WHOLE LOTTA LOVE FOR TOBAGO ... I'm sure.

Have a lovely holiday ... I await your report with relish.

Lotta Love

Paul
Jean Sampson

Friendly people

Post by Jean Sampson »

I am really sorry that you had a bad experience staying in Castara. I have travelled the whole island with family and friends who live there, and in all honesty I have never on my visits encountered one Tobagonian who did not greet me with a warm beaming smile. I was in Castara recently and was not aware of the things you mentioned. I have fallen in love with Tobago and like you have travelled far, for my part to all continents of the world. At times you may encounter things you do not much like in foreign parts but I have found so much to like in Tobago that for me it is somewhere very special.
Kay Roberts

Our first visit to Tobago - Castara

Post by Kay Roberts »

I had read Joana's review before we left. I was a bit aprehensive. But Bob and I went with an open mind. We have just come back from staying in Castara for 14 days. We also stayed and Sandcastles. As you said the view from the balcony are fantastic and it must be a birdwatchers paradise. Joana mentioned bats. There was only one bat and Adam is really trying to get rid of it. We all tried to scare it off each night but to no avail. Adam is now trying to catch it (very difficult) and take it elsewhere. I am sure he will win in the end.

The village - Joana what did you expect, its a poor country, its a small fishing village not a commercial place catering for tourists. Thats the beauty of it. We were quite surprised how well kept most of the houses were. The tiny shops only cater for the local people, but we had a laugh with most of them and we met some lovely characters. My favorite was Debbie in Cascreole bar and restaurant on the beach. We smiled and said good morning to everyone we passed going through the villiage and got a response from nearly all of them.

The beach at castara is lovely, safe swimming. Its mostly the tourists who leave the litter and as there are not that many tourists its not that bad.

We had a wonderful holiday staying at Sandcastle, Adam and Ria could not have been more helpful. Castara - well Bob and I visited most beaches in Tobago, but for us Castara beat them all. Needless to day we had a fantastic holiday. Thank you Ria and Adam at Sandcatles and Castara for being what you are.
Pauline

Post by Pauline »

The internet never fails to amaze. I have just read the last post (Kay's), having returned yesterday from 2 weeks in Castara. We live near Bristol (like Kay) but didn't bump into her. Oh well, perhaps next year.

I would like to endorse everything Kay has said. We too were somewhat apprehensive having read Joana's report on Castara. In the event Castara exceeded all our expectations. In our view it is a lovely, rural, unspoilt Caribbean fishing village. We stayed at Castara Retreats (Steve - I will put a review on the accommodation thread shortly). Suffice to say here that Castara Retreats is excellent in all respects (except that it is fully booked for Christmas 2004). We met lots of people staying in the other accommodation in Castara, and for those of you who have booked elsewhere, we heard good reports of the Blue Mango (two couples), the Beach House (lovely setting right on the beach) and Sandcastles. Also heard good feedback on Paradise Point villa, although this is outside of the village and a car would be a necessity.

We found the local people to be perfectly friendly and helpful. They do not put on a "have a nice day" show for tourists - it is after all a working village. We spoke to the shop keepers and village people when walking to the beach and within a few days we were being greeted by everyone we saw. I find the suggestion that Tobagan people are impoverished rather bizarre. The children may not wear shoes when they are playing (why should they, they are playing cricket on the beach half the time?) but they are all beautifully turned out when off to school or church.
As in every society, there will be people with problems, but in Tobago we saw no beggars or drug addicts on the streets which is an every day sight in UK and European cities.

As to the restaurants and food, as long as you do not expect European or American style menus and are happy to eat local food, you can eat simply but well. There are no menus and we were usually offered two or three choices (generally fish, chicken and shrimps). Some people might find this repetitive but I would prefer to eat local food than stuff brought in from miles abroad. Steak and chips eaters will be disappointed. There is no fancy messing about with starters etc. and everything is fresh - nice vegetables and salad accompaniments. Marguerite's was the nearest to us so we went there the most and we had good shrimps there, and pork with ginger. She does not have a licence, so we took our own wine and beer. Marguerite herself is lovely and sat and spoke with us each time we went there and she is the only place which we found to be open every day. We also liked Debbie at Cascreole on the beach who is also a good cook. Her creole shrimps are terrific, as are her rum punches. The Boat House serves similar food and we enjoyed ourselves there also. On the downside, as the village has relatively few tourists, sometimes we were the only people eating.

The swimming off Castara is good and we found the beaches to be perfectly clean. As Kay has said, litter was minimal (eg a couple of empty beer bottles by the Boat House) and probably left by tourists. Snorkelling was good and we saw lots of mantas in the bay. The water was slightly clearer off Angel Reef (Speyside) and at Buccoo, but this may have been the result of weather conditions at the time.

We explored the rest of the island by car and also looked into a number of the hotels for a drink. The Blue Waters Inn at Speyside is in a lovely setting and the trip on Frank's boat to Little Tobago is an absolute must. We had lunch at Gemma's Tree House. This is quite an institution, but I did get the feeling that it is now firmly on the tourist trail (busloads of tourists arrived on day-trips from the south while we were there).

We also had lunch at the Coco Reef (where we shall probably stay when we win the lottery and are too old to self-cater in Castara). We were a bit worried that we might not be smart enough for lunch but we need not have worried. The service was excellent and a special mention to Alicia who made us very welcome.

Arnos Vale Hotel was much as described already on the forum. It was an experience to go for tea and bird-feeding at 4.00 pm and snorkelling afterwards, but we got the impression the hotel is no longer in its heyday.

Now, a plug for Ciao Cafe in Scarborough. This is the place to go for wonderful Italian coffee and home-made ice-cream. We went 3 times (the chocolate ice-cream beats the banana by a short head). The cafe is owned by an Italian chap who started up about 6 months ago, having been on holiday to Tobago and got smitten. They also do home made lasagne and pizza to take away.

Overall, Castara is the place to go if you want a real Tobagan experience, excellent swimming and snorkelling, abundant wildlife (frigate birds, ospreys, pelicans, manta rays, bats) and do not want night-life or any sort of sophistication.
HelenH

our first visit to tobago-Castara a different view

Post by HelenH »

Hi
i was really pleased to read both your complimentary reports on Castar and particulalarly on Castara retreats. We are off there on saturday for 2 weeks and cant wait
helen
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Post by Paul Tallet »

Hi Pauline

Lovely review ... one small point about the Manta Rays ... they are in most likely to be very large Sting Rays that unfortunately lost their tails ... I have seen 2 Sting Rays in Castara without tails and it is quite understandable that they are mistaken for Mantas ... or did you really see a Manta ???

Also, has anyone seen the magnificent spotted Eagle Ray in Castara with a really long tail?

Regarding Ciao Cafe ... the owner is Gabriele 'the passionate' and he also runs a real mean Italian Resturant in Buccoo that has standards that would put a 5 star resturant in the UK into perspective ... plus an extensive wine cellar.


Regards


Paul
David Parker

Castara

Post by David Parker »

Dear contributers and would be visitors,

My wife and myself have spent a week in Castara, returning on the 2 April 04. We had a wonderful time. We wanted a place away from the crowd. That is what we got- thankfully no coloured wrist bands, no regimented pool or sun beds, no security gated compounds, no scrabbling for buffet breakfast, I could go on.

We were priveliged to have a key hole view of life for some of the people of this working fishing village. We cannot speak highly enough of the welcome afforded us by Adam Hanlon at Sandcastles Apartments, Not only did he attend to our every need, his cooking is unsurpassed.

We also extend our thanks to Margerita and her daughter and family for accomodating us with her excellant cooking, attentiveness, and her daughters courtesy at all times. We were very pleased that we were offerd a table on two occasions and without booking. This when the place was very busy. Home made wine as well. The menu is clear and priced. Yes, we left a tip each night ,If it were bad then simply we would not have. I would have asked for my change and left discreetly and promtly. No fuss.

We said hello, goodmorning, goodnight and always received answers. We saw no starving animals.

To our friends in New York. We were amazed at your reaction to your visit. If I shake my head much more in responce, then it will surely fall off.

To the people of Castara thank you for being gracious enough to allow us to invade your space and tolerate our presence. Having been born in a small seaside town, working in hotels, I know.


David and Wendy
Tony Taylor

Castara our view

Post by Tony Taylor »

Hi To You All
Having written my accommodation review as promised(posted under accommodation) my thoughts now turn to Castara itself.
When you drop down the hill towards the village and look down across the bay and the beaches below, you immediately know this is the place to be.
Once into the village and now at sea level, the road immediately snakes steeply up again with houses, kiosk shops and bars alongside the road.
There is a general feeling of well being and no feeling of fear or crime. The people were very friendly, once they got to know you and were always willing to talk or offer advice when needed. Everyone said hello, even the youngsters. I was even invited into one of the local houses to watch Lara make his record breaking innings in the test match including being given drinks and cake. Would this happen in this Country?
One problem we encountered was the fact that at Easter most people shut up shop and enjoy themselves. For most of our two week stay Margarites was the only restaurant open and some shops were closed at times. Everything in Castara is a little erratic but this adds to its' charm and the feeling of being laid back and relaxed. Although one immediately thinks that perhaps the village should think more about the tourist it just wouldn't be Castara and would possibly be on the road to ruin. Not everyones cup of tea but it is worth contemplating. I think it's probably a place to miss over the Easter period if one is not able to accept their way of life.
As for Margarites, didn't she do us well. The main plate was generally the same each day with rice, macaroni, Mexican beans, jacket potato and various other vegetables. One then had a choice of lamb, pork, beef, goat, shrimp or other fish but not always all on the same day. And yes Steve she did provide crab and dumplings, especially to order, as I was determined to sample the local speciality. Flat rolled dumplings, a bit unexpected and the crab was a little difficult to get at without crackers. Quite an experience but tasty. We to were able to take our own wine or beer and Margarite was more than happy to sit down and share some wine with us and chat while we filled our tums. As for the fact that we were charged more than the locals and this was only TT$65 to TT$75, plus drinks, £6-50 to £7-50, we felt good inside knowing we were helping the local community. Good for her I say.
Another restaurant worth a visit was The Riverside at Parlacuvier but transport is required for this.
The local shops stocked most things we needed at prices way below what we would pay at home and were open till late into the evening.
Wallaces Bar, half way up the hill, near The Blue Mango stocked every drink you needed but was usually closed on Sundays when he went to church.
Much has been said about the dogs and the noise from the cockerels. We did see dogs but none in a poor state. They did tend to make us their friends and follow but don't they do that here? The cocks didn't bother us as we were generally out on the sun beds by 5-30am watching and feeding the birds, Paradise.
One thing I regret was that I didn't "bump" into Brian "Alibaba" Taylor. This was very remiss of me and I apologise. This will surely happen next time.
The beaches were second to none and my wife Helen assures me the snorkling was superb. I was particularly taken with the sting ray that came up and tickled our toes whilst standing just into the sea talking to Helen and Debbie whom we were priviledged to meet up with.
In conclusion, if you want to see the real Tobago, want peace and tranquility, enjoy all things nature, need to feel safe and secure then Castara is certainly the place for you.
Best wishes to those who are lucky enough to be visiting soon.
You'll love it.
Tony Taylor
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Post by Brian Taylor »

sorry we could not make it, Tony! Marguarite informed us, when to find you again in her place, but we had a quite busy season and came home LAAAAATE...
next time FOR SURE!
good to read that you had a good time. but when we follow this thread back it seems like most people agree and people who don't like Castara are not often to be found...
hope to see you all soon, back where the relaxation is... 8)

take care

STEPH & ali
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