Villa Gillailes.
We have been contemplating a trip to Tobago for a couple of years and finally made it in May this year. It was probably MyTobago that tipped the balance. I’m not sure where I first discovered this villa but it has received positive reports in the US press. We looked at numerous other villas and alternative types of accommodation but with three children, teenage boy and girl plus older daughter, we needed three bedrooms and the intimacy a villa provides. At $US200/night it represents pretty good value. It is in a very secluded location in the Mt Irvine area, surrounded by mature trees and with views across Buccoo Reef. There is a beautiful garden –sadly a little parched by the prolonged drought. A drought that, almost inevitably, ended the day we arrived; prompting the girls to accuse me of selecting a holiday destination totally inadequate to fulfil their desire to return home golden-brown and envied. My wife and I love a warm climate but are not dedicated sun-worshippers and my son (who is shooting up at the speed of Japanese Knotweed) wasn’t too bothered about the weather as long as there was plenty to eat.
Food wasn’t a problem as the lovely smiling maid Dee-Anne, who greeted us on arrival, had prepared curried chicken, salad, potatoes and home made bread. So welcome after a long trip - and delicious. She had also provided some groceries and that most important of victuals – beer.
We were also greeted by two unexpected guests, Sasha and Mako. House/guard dogs belonging to the owners. We hadn’t been advised that they would be there but, since all the family – except me, and I don’t even get a vote these days – are dog lovers, we were not too concerned. They were generally looked after by Dee-Anne who came to do housework for a few hours, six days a week, from around 0830. I met the wonderful owners, retired Tobagonians, and mentioned that although we were OK with it, other people might be concerned – particularly if they have small children. I think they will advise people in advance in future. Security is of course the main purpose for the presence of the dogs and they certainly guarded the fully fenced perimeters with enthusiasm.
The villa itself was perfect, plenty of light, spacious living and dining areas and comfortable, air conditioned bedrooms. Which reminds me; if you are a very light sleeper you will probably take a few days to adjust to Tobago. The dawn chorus commences at around 03:30 with the bare-eyed thrushes and runs through the spectrum of bird species culminating in the more familiar neighbourhood cockerels. I am not exaggerating; it’s a sort of baton passing exercise from the shrill cries of the thrushes to the whoops of the motmots with the anchor leg contested between Rufous-vented Chachalacas – which really do chachalac – and the traditional domestic harbingers of sunrise. Each species has its allotted timeslot which it utilises to maximum effect. You do adapt though – honestly. You might find the white noise of a full throttle air-conditioning unit useful for the first night or two. In truth, within a few days, you will love the sounds – even the drumming of the Red-Crowned Woodpeckers - who fortunately tend to be slightly later risers than their insomniac cousins. I am actually a bird lover and spent time birdwatching whilst on this beautiful island. This is another aspect of the villa with which we fell in love. Many of the species of Tobago were present in the garden of Villa Gillailes. The owners regularly fed the birds on one of the two verandas and we were often joined for lunch by Blue-Gray Tanagers, Motmots and humming birds. Mischievous Bananaquits even favoured us with their brightly coloured presence at the dinner table. The garden attracted dozens of different species and added an additional dimension to our stay. Even my teenagers, who would rather stand naked in front of their classmates than be seen with a bird book in their hands, became involved. Apologies for the ornithological droning – if anyone would like more info on where I discovered various species of birds on the island please email me at [email protected]
Beds were comfortable with plenty of nice fat pillows – I hate the emaciated wafers that are often provided. No matter how many of them you try to squeeze into one pillow case they are still completely useless. Two bedrooms were en-suite with the third having an adjacent bathroom. The kitchen is well stocked and has microwave, fridge/freezer, oven and hob. There is cable TV but you won’t need it and a VCR which doesn’t work but who cares. There is a utility room with washer and drier.
As mentioned the villa has two-verandas, north and south, ample areas for relaxing in both sun and shade, garden shower and a nice size swimming pool – certainly adequate for our requirements. The garden has numerous fruit trees, mangoes, limes etc and is studded with the type of plants that we can only dream about at home. Sorry Grace, I slipped a tiny cutting of that delightful bougainvillea into my luggage.
There is a downstairs annex which is used by the maid when she visits and is, I understand, sometimes let out as separate or additional accommodation. I am not sure of the cost.
In summary this is not a sterilised holiday rental property but a real living home with family photos, lots of books and a personality. It reflects the warmth of the owners who we met all too briefly on our last day. Provided you are not uncomfortable with the dogs you will thoroughly enjoy your stay in this lovely house as much as we did.
Villa Gillailes
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