Castara Retreats Lodges - Review Page 1

Review Update by Steve & Jill Wooler, February 2006

This review should be read as a supplement to our 2005 review of Castara Retreats (available here). This report is primarily about the two new self-contained, detached lodges, whereas our original review focused on the apartment accommodation.

Castara Retreats has undoubtedly become one of the most popular places to stay in Castara. The property opened in January 2003, offering three apartments in a Japanese-style haiku house. A renovated fisherman’s shack was added in 2004 and more recently two all-wood haiku lodges.

We first reviewed Castara Retreats in January 2005 after staying in the penthouse apartment (Rainforest Apartment), where we formed a very favourable impression of the accommodation, its location and the local support team. It was hard to imagine that there was a great deal to improve upon, particularly as the location offers the finest views in Castara. We were keen to re-visit and examine the new accommodations and to review progress since last year. We were not disappointed.

Castara Retreats has improved – in a way that underlines a commitment to simplicity, quality and attention to detail. In the words of owners Sue and Steve Felgate, they, together with their local partners Porridge and Jeanelle, "are dedicated to creating a small, friendly, eco-resort that sits in harmony with the environment and is supportive to the local community and economy". Their commendable motivation clearly shows.

Overview of Improvements

Without wishing to sound like a cardigan-wearing, eco-bore, I have met Steve and Sue Felgate often enough to know that their genuine aim is to create an ethos of simplicity in nature with sensitivity to the environment and to the local community. This is reflected in the graceful design of the two new wooden haiku lodges, Birdsong and Coasthanger that sit so discreetly on the surrounding hillside, totally without pretension. Viewed from any distance, such as the beach or the bay, you hardly see that they are there and when you do, they simply look so right. This is something that other property developers in Tobago MUST learn from. Tourism is worthless unless it is sustainable. Some other recent projects in the village are more in danger of driving visitors away from the village rather than to it.

The ‘Castara Retreats’ ethos was reflected in the design and building process. The lodges were constructed by a team of local carpenters to quite unique designs that provide the lodges with stunning views of the beach, village and rainforest whilst ensuring that the breeze is channeled through wooden louvered windows to keep the accommodation cool, airy and natural. The new lodges represent some of the finest craftsmanship that we have seen on the island. The local team should be very proud of their work. It was quite clear that there was a deliberate policy to work with local people in the construction of the lodges. In fact four of the six carpenters were from the village. Many more locals were involved in the plumbing, electrics, decoration and landscaping.

Guests staying at Castara Retreats continue to enjoy a high level of accommodation although it must be said that the two new lodges, Birdsong and Coasthanger, offer an even higher standard than the three apartments and Fisherman’s Lodge.

Rather surprisingly, it is impossible to identify one accommodation as having a better view than any other. They all have simply wonderful views of the bay and ocean. Some have views down the coast to the west. Others have views across the village. Every day one can watch the fishermen pulling the seine nets and see shoals of fish moving around the bay. Even more excitingly, you can regularly watch half a dozen or more sting rays scouring the bay for the discarded catch. It is also a great place for sunsets.

In the year since our last visit, the surrounding gardens have matured and additional areas have been landscaped and planted with an abundance of fruit trees, shrubs and flowers. New borders, rockeries, and footpaths have been created and the whole two acres of gardens are well cared for by Carrington, who often appears with gifts of mango, papaya, lemons, bananas, plantain and limes. In addition, Doris, who has a small garden centre in the village, is working on more intensive planting and care of particular areas. The gardens are a wonderful habitat for birds and wildlife. Hummingbirds are constantly in view; the shy agouti is regularly seen (as noted in the Visitors’ Books). Sadly there are less frequent sightings of the four foot six green iguana. The gardens are clearly a labour of love and are something for every client to enjoy.

The purchase of additional land has made possible not only the construction of the two wooden lodges, but also the creation of a road following the natural contours of the land up to the accommodation. Guests now arrive at a neat car park and no longer have the challenge of a stiff walk up the hill. The lodges and apartments are linked by well-designed concrete footpaths through the gardens and a scenic catwalk around the side of the hill.

Adjoining the car park, a new utility building offers departure-day shower facilities and a toilet, together with a baggage room with security safes. This is a very sensible and thoughtful improvement that enables guests to enjoy their final day without the usual inconvenience after they have vacated their accommodation.

Small improvements have also been made to the service to, and support of, guests. Each apartment or lodge is cleaned, and sheet and towel changed, twice a week, rather than once; vases of fresh exotic flowers greet everyone on arrival and are changed each week by Doris; and a thoughtful welcome pack of cold Carib beers and water, plus home-made bread, marmalade and tea for breakfast. A large citronella candle in a glass bowl will help you relax on your first evening.

The local team has also been expanded with additional people to help with cleaning, including Porridge’s sister and mother, and extra help in the garden for Carrington. Duck still visits to check who wants a boat trip, and his sister Marieta not only cooks meals on arrival but also meals to order on any evening. It all adds up to a lovely family atmosphere and the opportunity to meet local people who are pleased to exchange information and philosophies and to earn a living at the same time. Lots of guests comment on their appreciation of being introduced to local Caribbean culture in this way, and it is obviously an important element of their holiday.

All of these improvements attest to the dedication of the team at Castara Retreats, who appear to be constantly considering how best to ensure that guests enjoy a unique and special experience centred on the beauty and naturalness of the environment without offering unnecessary luxury. Porridge continues to offer his big smile and warm welcome to everyone and he too seems to have broadened and grown in the past year. The visitors’ books are full of references to his many kindnesses and attentiveness to guests, as indeed do many of the reviews posted on myTobago. Experienced and well-travelled guests have recognised that he offers a naturalness, warmth and professionalism that would be highly rated anywhere in the world. His genuine approach is simply another reflection of a special ethos at Castara Retreats that attracts good people to work there and guests who are alert to, and looking for, what is on offer. There is a good deal of positive feedback and very few complaints and in part this is because the Castara Retreats website gives a clear picture of what is and is not on offer. It is not a hotel, staff are not in residence, air conditioning is not provided, and there is no daily maid service, swimming pool or television. Obviously the lack of such amenities is somehow a positive endorsement for many travellers as the place has been more or less fully booked for an eight month high season with a large element of repeat bookings and referrals.

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