Post Recreated: Originally posted - 13 February 2003
We're staying at The Sugar Mill and Montgomery House at Arnos Vale for 10 days. Has anyone stayed there recently? Interested to hear opinions about the properties and also any tips on local beaches, shops, good places to eat etc.
The Sugar Mill / Montgomery House
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Steve Wooler
- myTobago Editor & Chief Anorak
- Posts: 4842
- Joined: Sun Apr 21, 2002 11:00 pm
- Location: Suffolk, England
- Contact:
The Sugar Mill / Montgomery House
Post Recreated: Originally posted - 13 February 2003
Well, Jeremy, if you’re looking for quiet, peace and relaxation, then you’re in for the treat of a lifetime. If you want crowds, loud music and lots of activity, you better cancel your reservation.
When I saw your post this morning, I racked my brains trying to figure out where Montgomery House and Sugar Mill might be. I checked and studied the details and photos in our villa listings, but not a clue. I sat back in my deckchair – and gave everybody a start by jumping up and screaming for a pair of binoculars. Sure enough, through the foliage and the only other man-made structure that I could see was a hint of the unmistakeable roof of Montgomery House – our next door neighbour! So, curiosity awakened and despite the heat of the midday sun (you owe me at least two beers!), I walked down the hill of our current villa (Being), across the road, and up the drive of what indeed turned out to be Montgomery House and Sugar Mill. The housekeeper was about to leave, having just finished preparing the house for new arrivals this evening, but she proudly (and trustingly) showed me around the place.
The houses are lovely. They are very well maintained and furnished in traditional Colonial-style. The rooms are large and airy. Take a tip and forget the air-conditioners in each room if you’re coming before the wet season. Throw your windows open and enjoy the wonderful sea breezes – you’ll sleep much better. We haven't seen a single mossie in the time we've been here.
The views from the house – particularly the main wrap-around balcony of Montgomery House are stunning. Peep hard enough through the foliage and you might just see ‘our’ villa, but other than that it’s just you, the ocean and a beautiful hilly coastline. There are only two other villas and three or four local houses some distance back down the track. We’ve met most/all the locals and they’re all really nice and friendly.
There’s a trail leading down through your garden and then down the hillside to a deserted beach. It’s a bit of a climb, but we worth it if you want total privacy. The nearest other beach, with full facilities, is at the Arnos Vale Hotel at the start of the track leading up to Montgomery House/Sugar Mill. Other than that, you’ll have to drive back to Turtle Beach (about 10 minutes drive).
It is absolutely essential that you have a vehicle – and given the kilometre of unmade track leading up to the villas, you’d be better paying extra for something decent with proper suspension (no, I’m not going to start another rant about Suzukis).
There are one or two small local general stores in the neighbouring village of Plymouth, but most of your shopping will have to be done in Scarborough or the Bon Accord/Crown Point areas (all 20-30 minutes drive).
Your nearest restaurant is the romantic Arnos Vale Waterwheel (mixed reports but apparently lovely romantic setting) and Amadeus (possibly our favourite restaurant on the island). Other than that there’s absolutely nothing until you get back to Black Rock (15 minutes) where you have the choice of Seahorse Inn, Indigo or Black Rock Café.
Have a great time and please let us know how you get on there. Now you’ll excuse me if I go and have a beer and a lie-down after that hot walk across the valley.
Well, Jeremy, if you’re looking for quiet, peace and relaxation, then you’re in for the treat of a lifetime. If you want crowds, loud music and lots of activity, you better cancel your reservation.
When I saw your post this morning, I racked my brains trying to figure out where Montgomery House and Sugar Mill might be. I checked and studied the details and photos in our villa listings, but not a clue. I sat back in my deckchair – and gave everybody a start by jumping up and screaming for a pair of binoculars. Sure enough, through the foliage and the only other man-made structure that I could see was a hint of the unmistakeable roof of Montgomery House – our next door neighbour! So, curiosity awakened and despite the heat of the midday sun (you owe me at least two beers!), I walked down the hill of our current villa (Being), across the road, and up the drive of what indeed turned out to be Montgomery House and Sugar Mill. The housekeeper was about to leave, having just finished preparing the house for new arrivals this evening, but she proudly (and trustingly) showed me around the place.
The houses are lovely. They are very well maintained and furnished in traditional Colonial-style. The rooms are large and airy. Take a tip and forget the air-conditioners in each room if you’re coming before the wet season. Throw your windows open and enjoy the wonderful sea breezes – you’ll sleep much better. We haven't seen a single mossie in the time we've been here.
The views from the house – particularly the main wrap-around balcony of Montgomery House are stunning. Peep hard enough through the foliage and you might just see ‘our’ villa, but other than that it’s just you, the ocean and a beautiful hilly coastline. There are only two other villas and three or four local houses some distance back down the track. We’ve met most/all the locals and they’re all really nice and friendly.
There’s a trail leading down through your garden and then down the hillside to a deserted beach. It’s a bit of a climb, but we worth it if you want total privacy. The nearest other beach, with full facilities, is at the Arnos Vale Hotel at the start of the track leading up to Montgomery House/Sugar Mill. Other than that, you’ll have to drive back to Turtle Beach (about 10 minutes drive).
It is absolutely essential that you have a vehicle – and given the kilometre of unmade track leading up to the villas, you’d be better paying extra for something decent with proper suspension (no, I’m not going to start another rant about Suzukis).
There are one or two small local general stores in the neighbouring village of Plymouth, but most of your shopping will have to be done in Scarborough or the Bon Accord/Crown Point areas (all 20-30 minutes drive).
Your nearest restaurant is the romantic Arnos Vale Waterwheel (mixed reports but apparently lovely romantic setting) and Amadeus (possibly our favourite restaurant on the island). Other than that there’s absolutely nothing until you get back to Black Rock (15 minutes) where you have the choice of Seahorse Inn, Indigo or Black Rock Café.
Have a great time and please let us know how you get on there. Now you’ll excuse me if I go and have a beer and a lie-down after that hot walk across the valley.
Steve Wooler
myTobago.info - the definitive Visitor Guide to Tobago
myTobago.info - the definitive Visitor Guide to Tobago
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Jeremy I'Anson
The Sugar Mill / Montgomery House
Post Recreated: Originally posted - 14 February 2003
Wow! I never expected such a comprehensive reply! Great site (which we have read extensively for the last month). Sounds wonderful and we definitely want the peace and quiet although whether we'll get it with our two girls (aged 3 and 5) remains to be seen! We'll be there 22 Feb - 3rd March, first week at The Sugar Mill and the last three days in Montgomery House. If you're still there take that walk again and the beers will be waiting! Hope to see you then.
Thanks again
Jeremy
Wow! I never expected such a comprehensive reply! Great site (which we have read extensively for the last month). Sounds wonderful and we definitely want the peace and quiet although whether we'll get it with our two girls (aged 3 and 5) remains to be seen! We'll be there 22 Feb - 3rd March, first week at The Sugar Mill and the last three days in Montgomery House. If you're still there take that walk again and the beers will be waiting! Hope to see you then.
Thanks again
Jeremy
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Steve Wooler
- myTobago Editor & Chief Anorak
- Posts: 4842
- Joined: Sun Apr 21, 2002 11:00 pm
- Location: Suffolk, England
- Contact:
The Sugar Mill / Montgomery House
Post Recreated: Originally posted - 14 February 2003
Sadly, Jeremy, we leave tomorrow after four glorious weeks on the island. The weather has been magnificent and we have experienced such wonderful hospitality and friendship throughout our stay in seven different accommodation properties. Have a great holiday and let us know your impressions of The Sugar Mill and Montgomery House. Oh, by the way - you must speak to your next door neighbour - a Rastafarian called Engine Bobb. Apart from a wonderful line of patter (he could teach the Irish a thing or two) he's makes amazing carved calabash or bamboo bird feeders. It's stunning watching him carve designs using a simple chisel. Wonderful personalised souveneir because he'll carve your name, or anything else you like, within the design. Commercial over - I'll nip over and collect my commission.
Sadly, Jeremy, we leave tomorrow after four glorious weeks on the island. The weather has been magnificent and we have experienced such wonderful hospitality and friendship throughout our stay in seven different accommodation properties. Have a great holiday and let us know your impressions of The Sugar Mill and Montgomery House. Oh, by the way - you must speak to your next door neighbour - a Rastafarian called Engine Bobb. Apart from a wonderful line of patter (he could teach the Irish a thing or two) he's makes amazing carved calabash or bamboo bird feeders. It's stunning watching him carve designs using a simple chisel. Wonderful personalised souveneir because he'll carve your name, or anything else you like, within the design. Commercial over - I'll nip over and collect my commission.
Steve Wooler
myTobago.info - the definitive Visitor Guide to Tobago
myTobago.info - the definitive Visitor Guide to Tobago
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Dave Park
Our Stay at the Sugar Mill
How do you describe Paradise?
The Montgomery family lives in nearby Trinidad but spends many of their weekends at the Sugar Mill. They designed the Sugar Mill themselves after building the Montgomery House on the top of the hill. Clearly they designed the Sugar Mill with a great deal of loving thought. They are unbelievably trusting people with 2 small children and hence the furnishings are a mix of the beautiful antique and the casual.
Elegant yet casual, the soft combination of stone and wood, the gently tapering circular central Mill tower, the many magnificent arched double doors, the soothingly warm curiously shaped many jetted pool, the lovely flowers, the interesting mixed variety of encircling shady trees all combine with the ridge top perch above the ocean to make this place the most refreshing, romantic, relaxing, incredibly private and secluded place my wife and I have ever experienced. The words languid and lassitutde come to mind when trying to describe the feeling that came over us while living in this home.
Some days we never left the villa. We got up when we pleased, opened all the doors and windows and let the breeze blow through the house all day. We made our breakfast and most often ate on the patio overlooking the pool below, with the Villa Being visible above and through the trees perhaps a quarter mile away. We'd read, swim, sunbathe, and generally frolic or doze off however the spirit moved us. The Montgomerys let you use their things and one of my favorites was their binoculars - not so much to watch the birds though there are many to see - but to watch the sea.
The beach below is a bit of a hike and the trail is faily steep in places. Wear sneakers. Do not go barefoot or in sandals. The beach is sandy and completely private but there are some rocks in the water so use care going into the water.
The kitchen is the most unusual kitchen we have ever seen and is the center of the house. It has all the appliances one could ever want and yet it is not modern at all. It gives one a feeling of age and permance and elegance all at the same time which seems absurd when describing a kitchen. The dining room is intimate, elegant and magnificently placed facing west off the end of the ridge over the sea and into the setting sun.
My wife absolutely loved the master bedroom (directly above the dining room). The four poster canopied king sized bed was fabulous and the airconditioner(only in the 2 bedrooms) was perfect, although just a little unusual as the remote took some trial and error to master.
I loved the bathroom for its many unique quirks although my wife found the open shower and the occasional cute little green lizards that liked to come in through the window to gaze down on her from the walls a bit disconcerting at first. She closed the windows so they couldn't get in but later got used to them.
We rented a car because we love to explore but didn't do as much as on our prior vacation to Tobago. The local supermarket in Plymouth is OK but we did our bigger shopping at Pennysavers near the airrport.
Englishnan's Bay is still our favorite beach but this time we discovered Pirate's Bay in Charlotteville. There is a fairly secluded part of this beach at the end toward town that is almost like a grotto surrounded by high rock walls and overhung with towering trees. It is almost 5 degrees cooler in this grotto than on the main beach. The overhanging vines and overwhelming greenness make it is easy to see why Robinson Crusoe was filmed here.
Dolly the caretaker is warm and friendly and a great source of helpful information. The puppy Tuff is just as friendly and apt to make himself at home if you offer him a little TLC which we certainly did.
The housekeeper and cook were friendly but not in the least intrusive.
The top of the tower (effectively the third floor) offers incredible views of the stars by night and the sea and hills by day. The telescope is off limits however. It was too hot for us by day and by night we didn't spend much time up there because my wife doesn't care for bats.
The pool at nigth was almost better than by day. By day the Tobago sun is incredibly hot especially between 10 AM and 2 PM. But at night we would turn the pool and outside lights on before going out for dinner. When we came back home after dinner the lights welcomed us. We always enjoyed our evenings. The water was so pleasantly warm and since the pool is neck-deep for adults, we stayed in much longer than during the day.
If you have small children this is probably not the place for you because of the open wraparound staircase without a railing going up to the second floor. Also the pool cannot be be secured to keep small children out and the ground drops fairly steeply on all sides of the house and the railings that surround the wraparound patio are for adults not small children.
There is not much more to say. This place may or may not be the place for you. But for us the Sugar Mill is heaven on earth.
The Montgomery family lives in nearby Trinidad but spends many of their weekends at the Sugar Mill. They designed the Sugar Mill themselves after building the Montgomery House on the top of the hill. Clearly they designed the Sugar Mill with a great deal of loving thought. They are unbelievably trusting people with 2 small children and hence the furnishings are a mix of the beautiful antique and the casual.
Elegant yet casual, the soft combination of stone and wood, the gently tapering circular central Mill tower, the many magnificent arched double doors, the soothingly warm curiously shaped many jetted pool, the lovely flowers, the interesting mixed variety of encircling shady trees all combine with the ridge top perch above the ocean to make this place the most refreshing, romantic, relaxing, incredibly private and secluded place my wife and I have ever experienced. The words languid and lassitutde come to mind when trying to describe the feeling that came over us while living in this home.
Some days we never left the villa. We got up when we pleased, opened all the doors and windows and let the breeze blow through the house all day. We made our breakfast and most often ate on the patio overlooking the pool below, with the Villa Being visible above and through the trees perhaps a quarter mile away. We'd read, swim, sunbathe, and generally frolic or doze off however the spirit moved us. The Montgomerys let you use their things and one of my favorites was their binoculars - not so much to watch the birds though there are many to see - but to watch the sea.
The beach below is a bit of a hike and the trail is faily steep in places. Wear sneakers. Do not go barefoot or in sandals. The beach is sandy and completely private but there are some rocks in the water so use care going into the water.
The kitchen is the most unusual kitchen we have ever seen and is the center of the house. It has all the appliances one could ever want and yet it is not modern at all. It gives one a feeling of age and permance and elegance all at the same time which seems absurd when describing a kitchen. The dining room is intimate, elegant and magnificently placed facing west off the end of the ridge over the sea and into the setting sun.
My wife absolutely loved the master bedroom (directly above the dining room). The four poster canopied king sized bed was fabulous and the airconditioner(only in the 2 bedrooms) was perfect, although just a little unusual as the remote took some trial and error to master.
I loved the bathroom for its many unique quirks although my wife found the open shower and the occasional cute little green lizards that liked to come in through the window to gaze down on her from the walls a bit disconcerting at first. She closed the windows so they couldn't get in but later got used to them.
We rented a car because we love to explore but didn't do as much as on our prior vacation to Tobago. The local supermarket in Plymouth is OK but we did our bigger shopping at Pennysavers near the airrport.
Englishnan's Bay is still our favorite beach but this time we discovered Pirate's Bay in Charlotteville. There is a fairly secluded part of this beach at the end toward town that is almost like a grotto surrounded by high rock walls and overhung with towering trees. It is almost 5 degrees cooler in this grotto than on the main beach. The overhanging vines and overwhelming greenness make it is easy to see why Robinson Crusoe was filmed here.
Dolly the caretaker is warm and friendly and a great source of helpful information. The puppy Tuff is just as friendly and apt to make himself at home if you offer him a little TLC which we certainly did.
The housekeeper and cook were friendly but not in the least intrusive.
The top of the tower (effectively the third floor) offers incredible views of the stars by night and the sea and hills by day. The telescope is off limits however. It was too hot for us by day and by night we didn't spend much time up there because my wife doesn't care for bats.
The pool at nigth was almost better than by day. By day the Tobago sun is incredibly hot especially between 10 AM and 2 PM. But at night we would turn the pool and outside lights on before going out for dinner. When we came back home after dinner the lights welcomed us. We always enjoyed our evenings. The water was so pleasantly warm and since the pool is neck-deep for adults, we stayed in much longer than during the day.
If you have small children this is probably not the place for you because of the open wraparound staircase without a railing going up to the second floor. Also the pool cannot be be secured to keep small children out and the ground drops fairly steeply on all sides of the house and the railings that surround the wraparound patio are for adults not small children.
There is not much more to say. This place may or may not be the place for you. But for us the Sugar Mill is heaven on earth.
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Steve Wooler
- myTobago Editor & Chief Anorak
- Posts: 4842
- Joined: Sun Apr 21, 2002 11:00 pm
- Location: Suffolk, England
- Contact:
Hi Dave
Thank you for that lovely and comprehensive review.
Back in February, reader Jeremy I’Anson posted:
I looked up and the answer it hit me. The roof of Montgomery House was the only other sign of civilisation we could see. I dumped my laptop and ran down the hill. Sure enough, the property directly opposite, totally hidden by trees and foliage, was Montgomery House. Being the nosy sod that I am, I went in. There were no guests in residence, but the housekeeper/caretaker couldn’t have been nicer. She was just preparing the place for visitors arriving that evening. We met these visitors later and they totally endorsed your views.
I have to say that Montgomery House and the Sugar Mill are very much our sort of place. In fact, I would have to say that in many, many way, I would have preferred to stay there rather than at Being. Don’t get me wrong, Being was a wonderful experience, but it’s very small, inpractical and rather pretentious. At the price, it's also for people with more money than sense. In comparison, Montgomery House and the Sugar Mill are “real”. They have a wonderful Colonial feel, all the location and view attributes of Being, but at a fraction of the cost. Truly one of the best “get away from it all” villas on Tobago.
Thank you for that lovely and comprehensive review.
Back in February, reader Jeremy I’Anson posted:
At the time, I was staying at Being villa in Arnos Vale. Having downloaded the forum post notifications and other email, I sat back in my deckchair with my laptop and pondered on Jeremy’s post. I didn't know Montgomery House, but having checked the photo in our accommodation listings, the property did look familiar. I just couldn’t figure out where it could be.We're staying at The Sugar Mill and Montgomery House at Arnos Vale for 10 days. Has anyone stayed there recently? Interested to hear opinions about the properties and also any tips on local beaches, shops, good places to eat etc.
I looked up and the answer it hit me. The roof of Montgomery House was the only other sign of civilisation we could see. I dumped my laptop and ran down the hill. Sure enough, the property directly opposite, totally hidden by trees and foliage, was Montgomery House. Being the nosy sod that I am, I went in. There were no guests in residence, but the housekeeper/caretaker couldn’t have been nicer. She was just preparing the place for visitors arriving that evening. We met these visitors later and they totally endorsed your views.
I have to say that Montgomery House and the Sugar Mill are very much our sort of place. In fact, I would have to say that in many, many way, I would have preferred to stay there rather than at Being. Don’t get me wrong, Being was a wonderful experience, but it’s very small, inpractical and rather pretentious. At the price, it's also for people with more money than sense. In comparison, Montgomery House and the Sugar Mill are “real”. They have a wonderful Colonial feel, all the location and view attributes of Being, but at a fraction of the cost. Truly one of the best “get away from it all” villas on Tobago.
Steve Wooler
myTobago.info - the definitive Visitor Guide to Tobago
myTobago.info - the definitive Visitor Guide to Tobago
-
Lisel
Hi nice review
I stayed at montgomery house in dec 2000 and must say its a delightfull getaway, most evenings we would cook fresh fish on the barbeque next to the pool which we had caught on our fishing trips with the local fishermen at plymouth
it really is a majestic place with stunning 360 degree views. Also the staff are excellent Richie the caretaker and Marilla the maid cannot do enough to please.
The house is also blessed with a wonderfull breeze which is always availible through the french doors which encircle the property.
Highly reccomended
I stayed at montgomery house in dec 2000 and must say its a delightfull getaway, most evenings we would cook fresh fish on the barbeque next to the pool which we had caught on our fishing trips with the local fishermen at plymouth
it really is a majestic place with stunning 360 degree views. Also the staff are excellent Richie the caretaker and Marilla the maid cannot do enough to please.The house is also blessed with a wonderfull breeze which is always availible through the french doors which encircle the property.
Highly reccomended
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Debby Park
Since my husband posted his view of the SugarMill, I felt that I needed to get in on the action too 
He has pretty much said it all - this was the vacation spot of our dreams. So many other times we've been disappointed when our accomodations were not quite what they seemed in the travel brochures but the SugarMill was everything and more.
There is not one negative thing that I can think of regarding this villa (except maybe the bats at night when we'd go up to the observatory and the occasional little lizard on the wall in the bathroom)
I did have a hard time getting used to the roads in Tobago. Not being nearly as adventuresome as my husband, I would have been happy to lounge around the pool all day but he wanted to get out and see the island.
It took me a few days to become a relaxed passenger but after that I got used to the hairpin turns and was able to actually open my eyes and enjoy the beauty of Tobago.
We will most defintely be returning to Tobago and hopefully the SugarMill will be available again. It would be very difficult to find another villa that was as luxurious but at the same time completely homey.
He has pretty much said it all - this was the vacation spot of our dreams. So many other times we've been disappointed when our accomodations were not quite what they seemed in the travel brochures but the SugarMill was everything and more.There is not one negative thing that I can think of regarding this villa (except maybe the bats at night when we'd go up to the observatory and the occasional little lizard on the wall in the bathroom)
I did have a hard time getting used to the roads in Tobago. Not being nearly as adventuresome as my husband, I would have been happy to lounge around the pool all day but he wanted to get out and see the island.
It took me a few days to become a relaxed passenger but after that I got used to the hairpin turns and was able to actually open my eyes and enjoy the beauty of Tobago.
We will most defintely be returning to Tobago and hopefully the SugarMill will be available again. It would be very difficult to find another villa that was as luxurious but at the same time completely homey.