So let's have a waffle or two about Tobago then. You thought I had nothing more to say about our holiday, didn't you?
We stayed in a privately owned house in Castara, up a hill. Eighty or so rough, gruelling steps up a hill, called Jackson's Trace, with a little shop at the bottom.
The first day we arrived, we parked our jeepy-thing on the grass next to Marvin's Bar(being careful not to run over the tethered goat) and gazed upwards. Couldn't even
see the house! In fact, it's so well-hidden that I remember one of the locals remarking: " I wondered what was up there!"
"Oh dear" I said. "How on earth are we going to get the luggage up there?"
"Just get on with it" said Himself.
So, I dragged my case up a few steps, by which time the family had reached the top and were on the way down, and came to my rescue. It's all very well putting wheels on cases to drag them along the road, but can someone please invent ones that go up stairs?
I had put myself in charge of the keys so the others had to wait patiently, or rather, impatiently, for me to crawl up the stairs, purple in the face, and collapse in a sweating heap while they worked out which of the keys went where.
Ah but it was worth it! There was a verandah running the whole length of the house, with a table and chairs, and we quickly realised we wouldn't be spending much time inside.
This was our view: to the left, tree covered hills from which came the regular dawn chorus of cocricos, and at the bottom, the football pitch from which came the sound of a strimmer every morning. In the centre, the road leading up the hill and the sea in the distance. To the right, the school and Marguerites,( which we didn't realise was Marguerites until we'd been there about five days), and more trees.
Yes I admit it; the best thing about the view was that we were able to watch everything that went on to our heart's content, hopefully being so high up that no-one would notice how nosey we were.
We had intended, before we saw The Steps, to be up and out early each morning,( which is our normal routine on holiday) make a visit to the beach, see the fishermen pull in their nets and then go back for breakfast. This never happened. Once we had made our way down ( a rather nerve-wracking experience when it's been raining and you only have silly Primark flip flops on your feet), down we would stay for as long as possible. We didn't dare forget anything; you couldn't "nip back" and fetch it without having to stagger up Castara's own miniature Mount Everest. So, early morning pre-breakfast walks were out of the question.
The day would start at about five - thirty with the cockerels, dogs and cocricos all doing their best to ensure we didn't miss the sunrise. There was one cockerel who would practise outside the kitchen window, and wasn't the least deterred by our threats to have him for dinner.
After the dawn chorus came The Man With The Strimmer (or whatever the thing's called) to shave the vegetation around the football pitch.
By then, the rest of the village would wake up, with the occasional sound of a mother berating her children, and cars (with music of course) would start to appear on the road.
There was a pale green one which would drive up the road at seven thirty each day, and sometimes pick up a passenger. "There he goes" we would say. "He's very punctual".
One day he stopped for several minutes, and we were most concerned that there was a problem with the car and that he might be late for work. Maybe he was just fine tuning the sound system. He set off with us urging him on:" Go on mate, you've got five minutes to make up!"
Then we would watch the comings and goings of various locals, including Cheno whose house we overlooked, but he knew we'd be watching and would give us a wave! He would often brave the steps and come up to say hello, and, naturally, zip up them like a mountain goat and not even break into a sweat.
We would see people strolling across the field to the waterfall, or sometimes a lady going down to the river with the most enormous basket of washing on her head. How do they do that without dropping the lot? It's very good for the back and posture I believe, and with one particular lady wearing a long dress it was a scene reminiscent of the peoples' African origins.
We would also observe the wildlife; mostly the birds which we tried to tempt with biscuit and bread crumbs. We put out some rather unappetising muesli which they had great fun standing in and scattering all over the verandah and the roof of the apartment below in the hope of finding something better to eat.
Our feathered visitors included the ubiquitous banaquit, tanagers, a barred ant shrike and tropical mockingbirds; a name which my husband could never remember and kept saying Continental Mynah birds!
Let's not forget the bats, who thought the house belonged to them and at first would come inside and hang from the beams, but later were more wary. I wonder how long it was before they realised that when we had gone home they had the place to themselves again? We liked the bats; it was such a novelty having them fly in and out of the house. If only they didn't eat our bananas and leave deposits on our clothes and the mosquito nets.
Lizards of all sizes and varieties lived in and around the house, and we once had a large and impressive anole displaying its chin pouch for us on the verandah. It thought it was the size of a Tyrranosaurus Rex and wandered off, disappointed, when it realised we were not going to run away in terror.
There is food, in the form of fruit, everywhere in Tobago. The sweet aroma of mangoes, or the rather too sweet aroma of mangoes rotting just outside the kitchen window...and the terrifying sound of ripe mangoes landing with a crash on the wooden roof at 2 a.m. You could feed the whole village on the mangoes that fell on our roof. Halfway down the steps was an avocado tree with the biggest avocados I have ever seen.
We even enjoyed the rain. There is nothing more relaxing on a Sunday morning than to sit on the verandah with a cup of coffee, listening to the rain and watching it sweep across the hills. Until Cheno pops in and suggests that we might like to drag ourselves down the steps and actually see some of his country...
Those wretched steps, though less strenuous when going down, were more alarming than when going up. I wished I had brought my walking pole, especially after the rain. It's no fun tiptoeing down wet, steep, uneven steps in flip flops when you are wearing glasses with varifocal lenses. My son, bless him, decided I was not safe on my own, and would dutifully stay close by me until we reached the bottom, where once an elderly lady looked at me with great concern and told me to be careful. I received similar advice from an old lady when slowly making my way up the steps: "Take your time dear, have a rest." So I did.
I must not give you the impression that we spent most of the time on the verandah; we did go out every day!
What about the evenings? It gets dark early, that's the thing; no long light Summer evenings like in Northen Europe. Never mind, coming out in the dark was a bit of an adventure in itself.
We had brought torches, having been warned that the steps were very dark, so, clutching them tightly in front of us, we would set off Down The Stairs, being careful not to squash any of the local residents; by which I mean on one occasion, the largest, fattest frog I had ever seen, which sat in the middle he step, glaring at us and gulping in typical frog fashion.
Having reached the bottom without breaking our necks; a triumph of agility, we would head off for a wander, then go to Marguerites or Cascreole.
Later,back to the verandah, where we would sit for the rest of evening, watching people coming and going, and checking the time of the bus that would regularly stop to collect someone from Marguerites.
And so this chapter of the diary comes to a close.
Next: the Scary Washing Machine and the Exploding Water Tank....
