The Death of Castara?

[Sam]

It is with very deep sadness that we returned from Tobago a few weeks ago. Not our usual sadness on leaving Castara, but sadness that this, our sixth holiday there, was to be our last. Sadness that greed appears to be destroying a village we had grown to love. Sadness that Castara is no longer a viable destination for people looking for a relaxing, peaceful ‘natural’ Caribbean holiday.

The people of Tobago are obviously entitled to whatever form of relaxation they choose. If this means drunken, rowdy, all-night musical events at volumes that would make a rock band wince, then that is their right. As visitors, we have no right to tell them how to live. If we have a problem with it, then we have the option of going elsewhere. With great regret, we must now exercise that option.

However, regardless of these comments, gunfire and intimidation are not acceptable in any society. So, after several weeks of contemplation, I have decided to make this report.

Our last visit was ruined by a 24-hour event at the Cascreole complex. One cannot describe the volume of the music. Nobody in the village would have been able to sleep. The sound of gunfire the following morning was the final straw. We packed our bags and left. And, before we are accused of being old fogies, let me say that we are in our early 30s and both work in the entertainment industry.

We have since been told that the gunfire was the result of police firing pistols in the air to get attention after fighting broke out amongst revellers. The fact that such a drastic step was necessary surely illustrates the total chaos prevailing.

All-night events at Cascreole are apparently becoming increasingly frequent. What made it worse , however, was that two nights before we had been unable to sleep due to loud music until after 2am from the Blue Mango restaurant. This event now apparently takes place every Friday evening and affects most of the village. Worse still, from talking to other visitors and locals, we understand that the event attracts many of the bottom feeders of the local community. Some of these local patrons allegedly make it clear that white visitors aren’t welcome. We met a young American girl who had been subject to coarse sexual harassment as she left the restaurant, followed by threats and intimidation when her fiancée objected to the language and aggression of the commentators.

What most astounds me is that the owners of these establishments also offer visitor accommodation. Are guests of Angel Apartments and Blue Mango informed about the noise before their booking is accepted? Are they warned that they might be intimidated by drunken locals should they leave the accommodation? I don’t think so. The Angel Apartment and Blue Mango websites give no hint of these events or possible disruption. That is dishonesty to me.

When we first visited Castara in 2004, it was a peaceful little fishing village. The fact that the local shops and restaurants offered almost a parody of acceptable levels of service and quality, or that we had to make a two-hour round trip for groceries, was perversely part of the charm. Even the blatant rudeness of some locals, like the ‘bread ladies’, became something of a humorous challenge to the small but now rapidly diminishing group of regular visitors we met up with each year. Sadly, the quiet little fishing village with its handful of guest houses is a distant dream. Equally, the charm is wearing thin. As elsewhere, greed is replacing innocence.

Wake up, Castara. Your love of the tourist dollar is evident in your smart new cars and pickup trucks. But, don’t play the tourist for a fool. There is a price to pay for their patronage and their dollars. Service and hospitality!

Tourists want and need more than the same bland lukewarm meals served by sulky unwelcoming waitresses at prices more associated with London than Tobago. No wonder your restaurants are almost always empty. Only one is doing well - Cheno's Coffee House. And why? His catering may not be top of the local rankings, but at least tourists are made to feel welcome. The other restaurants will surely go the way of the cafe at the Naturalist - closed because visitors were driven away by rude unwelcoming staff charging excessive prices for mediocre fare.

The empty restaurants illustrate the dichotomy. Visitors are clearly preparing their own meals. So, why do the shops not sell the ingredients and supplies that tourists need and want? Why do guests have to make a two-hour round trip to the other end of the island to get even relatively basic supplies? Why are the shelves of Castara's only supermarket (part of Cascreole) almost always empty?

Taking it a stage further, do the people of the village seriously think that the type of visitor who books a holiday in a simple fishing village are really the type seeking all-night entertainment? Surely, tourists come to Castara (and Tobago) to relax, not to party?

Entertainment – yes! The Boathouse struck the right balance for many years. Their Wednesday night drum and steel pan entertainment was good entertainment. It always finished before 11pm so nobody could justifiably complain. However, even the Boathouse is now apparently getting nosier and later and has become something of a problem to guests staying in Little Bay. Do the owners of Boathouse warn guests staying at their own Boatview Apartments? I doubt it!

Perhaps we were once prepared to put up with these anomalies, put a smile on our faces and convince ourselves that it was all part of the charm of the village. However, with Little Bay now resembling the Costa Brava and the owners of the Blue Mango and Cascreole/Angel Apartments showing utter contempt for residents and visitors alike, I have to say ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!

[StephenMeeus]

Hello Sam , thanks for the death pill. I will accept that Castara is not the sleepy village that it was 6 or even 10 years ago....My wife & I first came here 12 years ago and even now when pushing 60, we still manage to have a good lime and have a blast. The village has changed over the years just as any up and coming area. Some changes are for the better and some for the worse. How can you disparage the locals for having nice, new vehicles? Maybe it would suit you better if they were all starving & in rags.
Have a nice life.

[Lynn Morris]

It is with great disappointment and sadness that I read Sam’s above post about the possible death of Castara.  My husband & I have been visiting Castara & staying at Castara Retreats at least once a year for the last 8 years and we have loved the place and the people. We think of it as a retreat from our everyday busy lives - somewhere we look forward to going for peace and relaxation & to recharge our batteries. We call Castara Retreats our 2nd home!  Also, I have always felt safe in the village & would have had no hesitation in going down to the village alone at night. I have never been intimidated or bothered.  But I would feel very different if we experienced the loud music and rowdy behaviour described by Sam in his review.
 
By its position in the valley, any sound in Castara is amplified right round the village, so quiet at night is important to those of us who come to Castara to relax, as well as to the local residents. I am shocked to hear about the noise and disturbance at Cascreole & also the littering of the beach after these events. Part of Castara’s charm is the beautiful, clean, safe, unspoiled beach. We have visited the Boat House and enjoyed the food and entertainment there - I have always been impressed by the courtesy Brendan showed to visitors, by ending the evening entertainment at 11.00pm, so not to disturb residents & tourists. To hear that even he has chosen to continue his entertainment into the night worries me!.  I am also surprised and concerned that the Blue Mango want to jeopardise their reputation with their men only entertainment and loud music on Friday nights.
 
It feels like a choice needs to be made – is Castara seeking to develop its image as a fishing village with beautiful beaches and friendly people who smile and make you feel welcome OR to develop its image as the clubbing capital of Tobago with all the consequent problems for residents and visitors alike, of loud music into the night, large crowds, litter and liquor, and the possibility of things becoming disorderly.  I can say with complete confidence that I am looking for places offering the former and I’d avoid the latter like the plague. 
 
The village needs to decide.  Maybe it’s just a few people who are determined to pursue the clubbing route, that will cater primarily for Trinidadians and Tobagonians.  If they succeed, which can only happen if they have the support of the Castara community, they will be responsible for the loss of tourist income for everyone in the village. I feel confident though that those in the village who do not want to lose tourist income will come together to sort out this problem. Yesterday I rang friends in the village and they said that concerned local people met at Chino’s on Saturday night and agreed that things need to change radically. A second meeting is planned for tomorrow, Tuesday,  with the intention of lobbying the Chief of Police and the Ministry of Tourism with a petition. Sam’s title to his email ‘Death of Castara’ is premature for me. I want to believe that something positive can come out of this situation.  I therefore prefer to title this post ‘Castara’s choice’.
 
We intend to book to return to Castara Retreats later in the year. Everything was fine when we visited in April & I am confident that when we return in November that Castara will have returned to being a quiet fishing village once more, with friendly bars and restaurants like Chino’s and the Boathouse, and with bbq parties that locals and tourist can enjoy together, and ending by 11pm. We feel very loyal to the people of the village who have worked so hard to make us feel welcome. When we return we hope the problems have been resolved.  If they are not then we will think very seriously before we book to come again. We will post a review afterwards.

[Andy K]

I am reading all this and wonder how Sam has the audacity to complain as if Castara is his estate !
I have my doubts that you understand the development of Tobago, the Caribbean in general and the situation
in the tourism industry in particular.
I am sure if enough foreign tourists would still come to Tobago, local business people would not have to resort to
organize big fetes at the beach. But somehow they have to survive.
Also please understand that locals love their music. Even at night. And it is not a secret that tourism as a whole
in Tobago would be already DEAD without the number of Trinidadians coming for long weekends.

The quiet fishing villlages, which you all like so much, do not give young people much of a chance to progress, and
with the tourism at a halt the industrious young people move to Trinidad or abroad to work and leave the village
with the elderly and those who can't do better (than dealing in drugs).
We have some examples for this development already, like Bethel, Spring Garden and others.
Nobody wants to see that happening to Castara or any other place and somehow the village will have to find
a compromise between the foreign tourists who want to sleep by 11 pm, and the locals, who want to party until
morning, and find out how to keep young industrious people in the village, keep drugs at bay, attract more business etc etc.

Last night i happened to lime in Castara, there were several "harvest" parties and i ended up at Alibaba's.
By 11:30 the party had to end because somebody complained about the music.
It may be useless to mention that the DJ had played a high class selection of soca and calypso, but i guess this
will never be appreciated by foreigners.

I am not involved in the tourism industry but i would like to see that tourists when they travel try to understand
and appreciate the people of the country including their problems, struggles, and their changes.
If you still want to see somebody travelling in a donkey cart, you may need to go to Africa

[Ronald]

When somenody say "It always finished before 11pm so nobody could justifiably complain". Well. for me that seems to a very early time to stop playing music and/or stop dancing in W.I.; and it ´s so in T&T too. I have NEVER seen a disco really start before 11pm in Tobago or somewhere else in W.I.

I´ve been staying in Castara, maybe it was so "long time ago", when the were fewer foreign guests, and mosty music for the visitors. But as far I know, a party doesn´t really start before 11pm, never mind you are in Trinidad or in Tobago.

I feel that Sam is complaining because he remember the old days, and maybe also other more quiet places whith a few number of foreign visitors, or?

Some visitors do want it to be completily quiet at 11pm. Well, than they must not choose a place into a village or at least not nearby places where both locals and visitors do go and lime. Sure, these places might not be close to beaches, villages, shops, and so on, but that´s how it is.

And Andy is right, when going abroad one must adapy to local rules, listen to local W.I. music and not the European disco music. When I´m in T&T, I want to hear and dance to local music, not some European boring disco music with only one bar, only useful when one prefer to be jumping up-down!
Boring, Boring!

[Andy K]

Let's hear what some well-known caribbean musicians have to say about the issue:

Beres Hammond

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0YaeDpKQJA


Steel Pulse

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt1DRVH9N8s

[Darlene Powell]

We are Castara "regulars" and consider the village to be almost like a second home. We start looking forward to our annual winter visit in late summer, as the northern Ontario days get shorter and the nights cooler and the leaves begin to turn colour. So having been advised about Sam's post called Death of Castara, I promptly went to the Forum and read what he had to say. And my response is a whole hearted --- HUH?

Some of Sam's comments have a bit of validity, but it is generally a matter of perspective and attitude. We have never, not once, felt one second of threat from anyone as we walk around the village at night. And I have never seen any local "bottom feeders" making rude or threatening comments to white girls, or tourists of any gender for that matter. The little stalls and shops are not particularly well provisioned, perhaps -- but the service we have received has always come with a smile and a willingness to help. We do a mix of self-catering and eating out, at least partly to support the local businesses -- and I have yet to enjoy more a freshly grilled King Fish steak as prepared at Vera's, for example! And as for the Cafe Delight -- it was indeed a delight to sit there sheltered from the sun and enjoying the phenomenal view over the bay! We had many a good breakfast or lunch there, and will miss it when we return in February 2012.

And who are you, Sam, to comment on the types of vehicles the local people may be driving? Uncalled for, unfair, and uninformed.

I do not condone gunfire and wild noisy parties -- and if this is becoming a regular occurrence on the lovely Castara bay, I am indeed sorry. But I have to wonder why these parties are occurring. When we started going to Castara, they were rare. It seems to me that perhaps it is an attempt to provide a "night life" for the type of visitors who expect it -- and yes, it may be greedy on the part of some property owners, but business is business -- if tourists are going and partying, the parties will contonue, but if there is no profit to be made they will die out. Moreover, the local people who actually live and work in Castara will not tolerate this for long, I wouldn't think!

So Death of Castara? A touch alarmist, and certainly not going to do the gentle village of Castara any good to see headlines like that! So tone it down, please.

[Andy K]

And who are you, Sam, to comment on the types of vehicles the local people may be driving? Uncalled for, unfair, and uninformed.

Bravo !

But let me shed a little light on this matter.
From approximately 2003 to 2008 Trinidad and Tobago experienced strong economic growth, which, fortunately in many cases, did not stop in front of the "small man's" door.
Persons, who have not been able to afford a car before, own a car now, as well as telephone, cellular phone, TV, DVD, computer, air conditioner etc etc.
And those who had an old car before, were able to buy a new one or better one or even a SUV or "4x4" pick-up van, the vehicle of choice on the islands and sell the old car to somebody else.
The downside of this development is traffic in epic proportions, more so in Trinidad, but increasingly also in the "Scarborough to Crown Point" region.
The thirst for some night life has also become stronger and the additional dollar was, and partly still is, available to be
spent in entertainment and drinks. I am, personally, glad that some villages have established their own Friday-Night entertainment and not everybody has to drive down to Bon Accord to the few night clubs anymore ... and drive home, drunk, on the country roads and cause terrible accidents.

This in addition to my contribution above. You can't expect your home country to progress and at the same time don't allow progress in the country where you spend your vacation.

[SteveFelgate]

Castara is my place of dreams and over the years many other people have told me that they feel the same. Hence the huge numbers of positive reviews on internet sites. My wife and I own Castara Retreats and on the rare occasions that there is a bad review like “Death of Castara?” on the forum then for sure I give that a lot of attention.

Our market at Castara Retreats is focused on couples and families looking for a holiday in a warm, beautiful, friendly and not too sophisticated place. They don’t want all the expense and formality that you get in up-market resorts in USA or Europe. Most times Castara hits the spot just perfectly for them. Our clients come back time after time for beach, nature, and local Caribbean culture.

Lots of people, including Castara Retreats have invested in tourist businesses in the village yet every time I come I see guest houses, restaurants and bars are empty. Amazingly, Castara is not getting across a consistently positive message to potential visitors.

Our business is down 20%, Tobago overall is down 60% and this is partly because of the bad press that Tobago and Castara receives from time to time. We are in a downward spiral and it will take time to turn it around. We could, if we decide we want to offer what tourists want, turn it around. But we will need to work together to do this. On the other hand, it will take no time at all to send it spiraling down lower. Sam’s post tells us how he sees things. We may not agree, but I for one think that we should listen to what he says and have a good think about his criticism. Unless of course we don’t want his business.

I’m clear that I want people like Sam to come back, he and other people like him so we can earn the money we need to support Castara families as well as our own. We employ 9 people year round in Castara and we actively support 8 other businesses with orders for meals, taxis, car hire, rainforest walks and more. How many people in Castara earn money out of a 24 hour gig like Shorty’s? Certainly we do not. For sure a few do, but is there enough benefit for the village to be worth the sleepless nights, fallout locally from disorderly behavior, the chaotic traffic situation, the rubbish on the beach the next day, and of course criticism from quite a lot of tourists. We get very direct negative feedback from our clients after a gig like Shorty’s.

For me it is a question of balance. Everyone in the world is entitled to party and to have fun. Some places in Spain party all night for 7 nights in a row. But there each one needs a license and the community are given notice that it will happen, and you only get a license if the party ends at an acceptable time, and people do not get disorderly or aggressive. In family resorts they are quite strict about the rules, in clubbing areas they are more lenient.

In Castara we know there is a big party running late at Carnival time in February and Fisherman’s Fete in August. No problem. But once every week till 2am is a problem for quite a few of our clients. If I know a party is planned then I need to tell our clients and some will then choose not come. And, a big party every six weeks or so, like with Shorty for all night till the next morning, and my business is dead.

We have lots of clients whom we cannot accommodate as we are full for 6 months of the year. We send all these into the village via MyTobago. A lot of money comes into the village from tourism but it will only continue if we listen to those visiting Castara and find a constructive way of accommodating their expectations/needs. And the challenge is to find a way to do this without compromising local freedoms. If we can’t find that balance then some will win and some will lose. At the moment we do not have a win/win because there is not sufficient agreement about number, duration and management of loud parties. If it carries on as it has done recently, then I’m sure that we cannot keep Castara Retreats going as it has done. I hope it does not come to this as I have had a lot of good times and made good friends in Castara. The best of my life. And it’s wonderful making a living for ourselves and others in the village, doing something that we enjoy.

This is my contribution to the debate, but what happens now is not my decision. It’s for the local people in Castara to decide. In the meantime, for any prospective visitors reading this, my family and I still have lots of very good times in Castara and our clients do as well, most of the time. If you are booking with us we will truthfully answer any questions you may ask on this or any other topic.

Steve Felgate
Castara Retreats

[Andy K]

Somehow i am glad that i don't live in Castara ...

[Blue Mango]

BLUE MANGO COTTAGES

It is totally false to accuse Blue Mango of being a noise maker.

Blue Mango consists of three cottages - Sweet Point, Sea Steps and the one I live in. No more , no less.

Further, I would assure anyone who stays in Sea Steps Cottage that they would have the quietest night in the village no matter where the music comes from.

Colin

[Carol G]

Hi All,
Well Sam, you certainly started a firestorm on your subject "Death of Castara" I think some of your comments are valid; there have been past posts on surly service, food that is less than edible for premium price, etc. These comments are for the entire island!! I have had it happen and wondered what happened to the Tobago I came to in 1991.
Passions about Castara are well meaning and also unrealistic...things do change. I appreciate Steve comments balanced as a owner and part of the village. Lynn & Darlene's comments should be also considered.
I find some comments (perhaps in exuberance for the love of Tobago) uncalled for ....if you spend a day/evening in Castara should you be commenting on staying a week or two? Maybe the lack of groceries & veggies/big parties/sound thing would also make you cringe.
In interest of full disclosure...we use to stay and visit with friends at their small place in Castara...just up the road from Blue Mango on the way to Englishmen Bay and also did shore dives. Our friend died from cancer much too early and we've had issues going again. In March 2011 we stopped for a swim...lovely day, but we were not staying.
Carol

[Paul Tallet]

This thread is the biggest load of nonsense I have seen in this forum ...

Everyone should get their heads out of the box and observe the following questions:-


1. Does Castara succumb to tourism?

2. Does Castara retain it's identity as a Predominantly fishing village?


Nobody in Castara will deny that this lovely village has been at odds with itself over the tourism ... there are some in Castara that like it and some that don't ... simple as that.

Why? ... Castara is a kind of 'boutique' holiday destination where visitors can mix with the community and share in their daily lives as well as enjoy a holiday in the many various hostelries.

When you do that then you see the good and bad side of things.

A Fisherman may call you a 'white bastard' or chase you down the beach for filming them pulling in the nets ... but perhaps we should start expressing how privileged we feel to have a natural holiday experience with natural (and equal!!) people in their normal habitat.

Oh how I love watching the school children walking to school every morning along the beach ... and they are so motivated and well dressed in their uniforms that they put our kids (in the UK) to shame ... there are underlying morals and principles in this community that we can learn from ... eh?

And like any other community, Castara has a nightlife ... like any community, Castara may have a riot or a local disagreement (as is suggested in the first post) ... they are humans just like us visitors who have our own issues at home ... and we find it all so unbearable when we go to a foreign place !!!!!! ... the whole concept has me wetting myself with laughter

Castara is NOT suited for those that expect service, luxury and 'red carpet' treatment ... this has been repeated many times in this forum.

The sooner the mainstream tourists get fed up with Castara the better for Castara ... it will always retain the visitors that love it for what it is ...it has the right balance to avoid being spoiled.

And ... how dare anyone criticise Castara for what it is ... accept it or ponce off to some '5 star' else and stop whinging ... Castara does not need you ...

... may Castara always retain it's community spirit and may I selfishly look forward to seeing many more sunsets from it's wonderful shore ... whilst feeling welcome, of course

Regards

[Runciman]

Well said Paul !

We will be back in September for a month, with friends and family to enjoy ALL that Castara has to offer, again!


I did not see you on the beach in January this year Paul?

[Paul Tallet]

I will be there next January/February 2012, it's all booked Sir and I am bringing my carer with me

And ... I hope I can continue to give something to Castara that can match the pleasures that it gives me.

I will not have the time for any whinging tourists ... equally, I will not entertain those in Castara that think I am in favour with myTobago ... because I am not ... simple as that!

Regards

[Andy K]

Paul,

thanks for sharing your view of Castara. I fully agree.
A good thing somebody who flying the english flag said what had to be said.
The opinion of a national or resident doesn't count too much, i guess

Hope to meet you in January.

[Paul Tallet]

Hi Andy

It would be lovely to meet up ... but I will be bxxxxxxd if people want to engage me in this debate while I am on holiday there.

I just want to enjoy it

Regards

[Andy K]

Hell no
I prefer to talk about simple things like food, drinks, women, fishing etc ... nothing to complicated

[Paul Tallet]

Hmmm ... I think those topics go well together depending on who joins us round the table

Regards

[Andy K]

They also go well together with drinks