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John Morgan

Alibaba Tours

Post by John Morgan »

Tuesday 4th April 2006

Alibabas Tour (won in myTobago raffle) – Driver Gaston Jackson.

Its not often I win anything . . . so winning a Tour of Tobago, in the myTobago raffle, was a wonderful pleasure and a great surprise.

We arrived on Tobago on the 25th March but we took a few days to settle in and acclimatise before I attempted to get in touch with Brian (Alibaba) to see when we would be able to take our trip. There wasn’t a problem getting hold of Brian and we settled on the Tuesday of our second week for our trip – Brian’s driver would pick us up at 9am just on the main road (about 300yds from where we were staying). We were at the appointed rendezvous at 08:50am but having, by now, had time to experience the laid back attitude of Tobagonians we all had a guess at what the actual time our guide would arrive. As it turned out we had unfairly misjudged the professionalism of Alibaba’s Tours, and we were all wrong, as our transport (an open backed vehicle) and driver turned up on the dot of nine.

Our Transport for the day:
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http://farm1.static.flickr.com/139/3606 ... 3078_b.jpg

Our driver/guide was Gaston(?) Jackson and on establishing that we’d already visited Castara and Englishman’s Bay but not the North east suggested that we go up the North side Road and come back down via the Hillsborough Dam and Greenhill waterfalls (unfortunately it’s not possible to avoid journeying through the asphalt processor plant and local tip) to Fort Granby. From there we followed the coast road northwards. Jackson asked if we wanted to stop off at the Argyle waterfall but, as my wife is partially sighted and would have had difficulty negotiating the walk, we passed on that. As compensation Jackson took us to the Kings Bay Waterfall which didn’t require a hike; though obviously a shadow of its former self it still provided a cooling dip for my parents and my wife.

Kings Bay Waterfall (my parents enjoying a cooling dip):
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/138/3606 ... 8f26_b.jpg

Onward we travelled each twist and turn of the road revealing new vistas. First Kings Bay itself, then overlooking Speyside, Goat Island & Little Tobago before heading back inland and the steep climb up to Flagstaff Hill for some fantastic views over London Bridge, St Giles and Melville Island. In the other direction Man O’War Bay and Charlottesville.

Charlottesville (from Flagstaff Hill):
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We took a few photos and then headed for Charlottesville where we stopped for a meal in a roadside eaterie - which had a lovely view out over the Bay. Up until this point in our stay we hadn’t tried the local delicacy – a Roti. Well, it had to be done. However, there were some concerns after we chose to have a chicken roti . . whilst Jackson went for the vegetable version (did he know something we didn’t?). Jackson laughed as we expressed our concerns . . . but the meal was fine; even my father, renowned for his dislike of spicy or unusual food enjoyed his whilst my mother found hers so filling she couldn’t finish it.

The next stage of our journey turned out to be off-road . . . well, off tarmac anyway, as we negotiated the unfinished section of road between Charlottesville and L’Ansi Fourmi. Here the jungle really did encroach onto the road. We saw Crested Oropendula (corn birds), and pairs of parrots flying overhead and at all times we could hear the calls of birds . . . even over the sound of the engine. One of the highlights for me was spotting a couple of trees with the hanging nests of the Crested Oropendula.

Nests:
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Once we re-joined the tarmac road out next stop was Bloody Bay – Jackson decided to spice up our trip and took the adventure detour by taking advantage of a workmen’s track down into the river bed. Here he scooted us along the watercourse until we could get back out onto the bank and straight onto the car park behind Bloody Bay.

Bloody Bay:
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The beach was completely deserted . . . not a soul in sight Though in all honesty the large mechanical digger, creating a landing platform for the barge delivering the concrete sections, for the new bridge over the Bloody Bay river, might have had something to do with that. At the back of the beach was a cocoa tree its pods ranging from green through to ripe browny red.

As we pass the turning for the Roxborough/Parletuvier road Jackson braked and stopped, having spotted a couple of birds resting on the tarmac of the road, in the shade of a tree. He informs us that they are Rufous-tailed Jacamar. Their heads and backs a sparkling emerald green then as they took off the russet of their tails showed. Lovely birds. Past Parletuvier the road now became familiar to us as we had travelled this part of the island on our searches for swimming and snorkelling opportunities.

Parletuvier:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/70/36068 ... 2570_b.jpg

Our journey turned homeward to Lambeau – it had been a great day out. Reservations about riding in an open topped jeep in the heat of the tropical sun (having been used to the sir-con in our hire car) was soon dispelled as the breeze flowed past. It also allowed you to feel part of the environment – its smells (not all good, the asphalt works and tip were ‘interesting’ variations) and sounds and the ability to look in all directions unencumbered by the roof and pillars on an enclosed vehicle.

Jackson was a delight, he smiled all day his face lighting up with an infectious grin . . usually followed with a ready laugh and he was more than happy to join in the banter which is part of any family trip. He answered all our queries about the places, things, people and wildlife with as much information as he could. Our tour was excellent but Jackson made it even better. I think the value in tours like the one we had is not just in the fact that you get to see some places that you wouldn’t necessarily find but also in the being able to enjoy the travelling without having to worry about driving and navigating yourself. Leave that bit to others and just concentrate on the scenery and the island. Get a driver/guide like Jackson and you can’t go wrong. With hindsight we should have taken the trip earlier in our stay . . Jackson certainly highlighted a few places I’d have liked to visit. Maybe next time . . . ?

John Morgan
Wales, UK
Sally Hudson

Post by Sally Hudson »

Dear John,
Thanks for that really helpful review. We're off to Castara in 3 weeks and after reading your review I think we will try one of Alibaba's tours. We were lucky enough to win a meal at Adam's place, Sandcastles, so I am looking forward to that and will try and write a review when we get back.
Regards,
Sally
Roland Siebenhorn
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Post by Roland Siebenhorn »

Hi John,

Thank you for that great report, peppered with some beautiful photos!
I would like to see more of them!

Greetings, Roland
Go to http://www.locki.net/tobago/bilder.php for my photos of Tobago
Belqaid K

Post by Belqaid K »

nice review :)
Gill O
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yellow orioles

Post by Gill O »

In my two bird guides of Trinidad & Tobago, it says that yellow orioles are only found on Trinidad. I remember Anaconda telling us last year that Jackson really knows his stuff, so perhaps he should write his own guide!
Hope to do a tour with him this time round.
Gill
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Gisela Grell
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Post by Gisela Grell »

Hi Sally and Gill,

Sally, looks like we will be there the same time (arriving Feb. 11th), maybe we can meet on a Carib. Enjoy your dinner at Adam's! It is amazing!

Gill, Jackson is a very good guide and knows so much about the forest, plants and animals. So if you take a trip with him you are in very good hands.

I will definately do a rainforest trip with him this time again :-)

Cheers

Gisela ( 5 days to go \:D/ )
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Steve Wooler
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Post by Steve Wooler »

Hi Gill

John Morgan wasn't sure of the name of the bird, although he quoted a name that sound like the orioles and I was convinced it was one and the same. Yes, the books seem to be "out-of-date" on this subject. Commonly known as 'corn birds' I believe, they are a common sight in Tobago. I know there were lots in Castara when we stayed last year and good examples of their distinctive long hanging nests can be seen on Flagstaff Hill at Charlotteville. Maybe they're not quite the same as the Trinidadian yellow oriole - just a sub-species or something. Perhaps some knowlegeable birder can clarify for us.
Steve Wooler
myTobago.info - the definitive Visitor Guide to Tobago
Gill O
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Post by Gill O »

Hi Steve,
I've just looked up Corn Bird in Richard Ffrench and it is the Crested Oropendula, also sometimes known as Yellow tail ( Hence maybe the confusion with Yellow Orioles) The description of the nests in the book matches the photos in the trip report. I'll look out for them in Castara at the end of February.
Gill (confined to quarters with flu)
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Post by Steve Wooler »

Gill - yes, you are absolutely right, I am sure. In fact I will change the wording in John's report because I posted that for him as he asked me to correct a one or two minor items, including that - so it was actually my mistake, not John's.
Steve Wooler
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Post by Steve Pitts »

Some pics here -

http://www.avesphoto.com/WEBSITE/TT/species/OROCRS.htm

which seem to fit the bill (bill.....get it?)

Oh - suit yourselves.
Take only photos - leave only footprints. I like that concept.
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