Post Recreated: Originally posted - 23 October 2002
The Moorhead’s Tobago 8-30 August 2002
We stayed 1 week in Buccoo, 1 week in Castara and 1 week back in Buccoo by popular vote. We are Freya, 14, Chloe,16, Giles, 18, and Janette & Mike.
Castara is classic hilly Caribbean country. Very local, very friendly but also pretty limited.
Castara Beach was not crowded, had beach bar that was only open in daytime and did not appear to be very busy. There was an active fish market. Castara beach has its main entrance off the coast road. The coast road rises to the North East of the beach on the way to Englishman’s Bay. The Castara Falls, across the road from the beach, across the playing field and up the river, were rather good for a fresh water dip. We were promised drumming on Friday nights but it did not materialise.
Heavenly Bay was small and, except for piles of rubbish at the entrance, lived up to its name as far as rocks, sand and fish were concerned. It was the best snorkelling we experienced including Buccoo reef. The two beaches are separated by a small headland. You can wade/swim between them easily. Either side of the headland there are two steep access roads, a second access to Castara Beach and the only access Heavenly Bay. The headland has 5 or 6 holiday houses on it. One of the houses right on the end of the headland has another very small beach with its own access. All the houses, except Beach House, seem to be run by the people at Blue Mango which is central on the headland. Bookings appear to be independent.
Beach House
This is right on the beach at Heavenly Bay. We were going to stay here but didn’t because the owner went on holiday to Devon just as we were about to book. It looked very good. A traditional wooden built house with fretwork screens. Seemed airy and spacious, better than the web photo suggested. We were looking for three bedrooms and this is what it has.
Mango House
Situated up the hill from the beaches, at the centre of the three roads, the coast road and the two access roads. It is built into the side of a steep hill just to one side of the headland about 200m from either beach. A house with many contrasts, not our best Tobago experience. The accommodation we were offered for 5 was, we thought at first, the whole house. A two bedroom apartment and a one bedroom studio connected to the apartment. We were then offered the rest of the house at an additional price at the last minute. This added another, downstairs, two bedroom apartment. We did a recce from Buccoo and decided that the initial offer was inadequate for 5 and insisted on the whole house, which we eventually got. In the event we narrowly avoided a disaster. The upstairs apartment had a pleasant double bedroom with a rather small double bed with baby space attached, hanging space, shelf but no drawers. The other “bedroom” was a passageway to the studio with no ventilation and no windows. There was no hanging space only a cupboard. There was a small double bed and a single bed leaving just enough floor space to walk across the foot of the double bed which was also the side of the single bed. There were two doors, one to the apartment and one to the studio with steps in the room. In our view, it was not useable as a bedroom other than for very small children. It should have had one single bed in it at most.
There was a bath room, which flooded through the shower drain when the washing machine was used, with a rather small basin. There was a reasonable kitchen area with oven and large fridge freezer but very short on utensils and crocks. The tap dripped monumentally throughout despite the attention of a plumber who replaced one shot washer with another shot washer and did not know how to regrind the seat. A new tap was going to be bought….. . The living area, adjacent to the kitchen area, had a sofa and 2 armchairs and opened onto a deck outside with a table and 5 chairs. This living space was OK for 4/5 but not spacious. By the front door was an outside shower, useful after the beach, and a washing machine that washed.
The definition of inside and outside is blurred because there were no complete walls, there were ventilation spaces above every wall and double doors from bedroom to sitting room and to deck; when all windows and doors were open it was all effectively outside. Birds moths etc flew in and out at will and when it rained that came in as well! From the deck there are views of the sunset over the sea through the trees but you are almost sitting in the road. In consequence we were an easy target for King David and his salesmen! There is also a fabulous mango tree opposite visited by parrots and other birds. The house is occupied by several small yellow birds that flit in and out most of the time and sleep in the trees overhanging the deck. We mended many of the wind chimes that are at every door. We were adopted by a dog who after a few days invited a mate to join him. On one occasion another dog arrived on the roof which is level with the main road above. The studio bedroom was a separate apartment for 2. It had hanging space, double bed and bathroom. There was a fridge, sink and some kitchenware but no kitchen as such. There was a lot of floor space and some huge shuttered windows and an upstairs gallery with a low roof. One could paint there, the view is mostly of trees.
The downstairs apartment was in better condition that the rest. This had a pleasant double room but a second very cramped room with two single beds had no floor space and a small window with a view into the hill a few feet from the window. Again it should have had one single bed. There was a small living area and a shaded terrace outside. Comfortable for 2/3.
Mosquitoes were vicious in spite of burning coils, spaying with jungle stuff and lotions. All beds had nets but most had seen better days would easily let in butterflies and moths.
The catering supplies on the welcome list were not provided, the bedding didn’t get changed as often as was said and it was difficult to keep clean without better brooms etc. By pooling equipment from all three apartments we had enough. The four slice toaster says it all, it toasted two slices on one side only!
Our peace was severely disrupted by tree clearing as a result of shorts on the local power lines. This removed some of the shade from the deck and our screen from the road. This was followed by strimming and cutting at 7am for three mornings which brought fresh waves of insects! Codrington Wallace’s bar 10m up the hill was quiet and good for a chat or drink supplies. The shop another 10m up the hill had daily bread deliveries and a few essentials but played music from 8am to 10pm which, being just above the Mango House roof meant we had to like whatever music they liked! The roti a further 100m up the hill went down very well.
To be continued ...
Castara Beach House
-
Sarah Thorp
Post Recreated: Originally posted - 30 October 2002
As the owner of Mangohouse, Castara, I was sorry to learn of Mr. Moorhead’s comments following his stay last august. As a last minute booking we perhaps did not properly discuss his family’s needs and expectations. I have always offered the 2 bedroom apartments of Mangohouse as suitable for either couples with children or just 2 adults sharing. The studio apartment can either be rented alone or used as an extra bedroom for the upper apartment and is generally popular with teenagers who like to have their own space but are still contained within the same apartment as their parents. Many families have stayed at mangohouse and have found that the living areas and outside decks provide ample space. The second bedroom upstairs does have a window / ventilation but is perhaps better for smaller children rather than 2 teenagers. As an English woman with 2 small children I loved the 4 years I stayed at mangohouse and hope that my visitors will too.
The inside / outside arrangement of the apartment has great appeal to nature lovers. People have often commented that the all-wood, open sided design makes them feel that they are staying in a tree house with birds visiting the breakfast table. A family of mot mots (king of the woods) nest right by the house and are beautiful visitors. Fruit laid out on the deck encourages yet more birds.
Mr. Moorhead stayed in August, the rainy season, when more mosquitoes are around but Manghouse's situation is slightly up from the beach with a cooling sea breeze and so generally has fewer mosquitoes than others further down the slope.
I was away at the time of Mr. Moorhead’s visit and was trying out a new manager. If I had been in the country, as I usually am, I would have offered a far more personal service and would have done my best to address his problems with the house. Now I am back I have been updating and upgrading the facilities and of course am taking action on his comments.
I would like to point out that mangohouse does have a clear view of the Caribbean Sea and that a lush bank of flowering shrubs screens the house from the road. It is unfortunate that emergency tree cutting took place due to the shorting of the electricity cables last august but luckily, being the tropics, vegetation grows back in no time at all.
I advise any visitors against feeding and encouraging any local dogs. Once they find a friend they stick by them and though very friendly and good-natured they might not be welcome for the whole stay.
I can recommend good tour guides for guests who would like to explore the sea and land around Castara and suggest that clear arrangements are made concerning price and meeting points. The locals are very friendly but are best met on the beach to avoid unwelcome visits.
As the owner of Mangohouse, Castara, I was sorry to learn of Mr. Moorhead’s comments following his stay last august. As a last minute booking we perhaps did not properly discuss his family’s needs and expectations. I have always offered the 2 bedroom apartments of Mangohouse as suitable for either couples with children or just 2 adults sharing. The studio apartment can either be rented alone or used as an extra bedroom for the upper apartment and is generally popular with teenagers who like to have their own space but are still contained within the same apartment as their parents. Many families have stayed at mangohouse and have found that the living areas and outside decks provide ample space. The second bedroom upstairs does have a window / ventilation but is perhaps better for smaller children rather than 2 teenagers. As an English woman with 2 small children I loved the 4 years I stayed at mangohouse and hope that my visitors will too.
The inside / outside arrangement of the apartment has great appeal to nature lovers. People have often commented that the all-wood, open sided design makes them feel that they are staying in a tree house with birds visiting the breakfast table. A family of mot mots (king of the woods) nest right by the house and are beautiful visitors. Fruit laid out on the deck encourages yet more birds.
Mr. Moorhead stayed in August, the rainy season, when more mosquitoes are around but Manghouse's situation is slightly up from the beach with a cooling sea breeze and so generally has fewer mosquitoes than others further down the slope.
I was away at the time of Mr. Moorhead’s visit and was trying out a new manager. If I had been in the country, as I usually am, I would have offered a far more personal service and would have done my best to address his problems with the house. Now I am back I have been updating and upgrading the facilities and of course am taking action on his comments.
I would like to point out that mangohouse does have a clear view of the Caribbean Sea and that a lush bank of flowering shrubs screens the house from the road. It is unfortunate that emergency tree cutting took place due to the shorting of the electricity cables last august but luckily, being the tropics, vegetation grows back in no time at all.
I advise any visitors against feeding and encouraging any local dogs. Once they find a friend they stick by them and though very friendly and good-natured they might not be welcome for the whole stay.
I can recommend good tour guides for guests who would like to explore the sea and land around Castara and suggest that clear arrangements are made concerning price and meeting points. The locals are very friendly but are best met on the beach to avoid unwelcome visits.
-
Martina Dökel