Guest Report

[D Powell]

Our first visit to The Naturalist was a spur-of-the-moment decision in June, 2005. After two weeks in Trinidad on business, my husband and I decided to take a short trip over to Tobago, on the recommendation of Trinidadian colleagues. We found The Naturalist on the Internet, and as Castara seemed to be exactly "our" type of place, we contacted Ancle George and arranged to stay at his little hotel for three days.

It is difficult to describe our reaction to Castara, and to Ancle and his people who received us so hospitably at The Naturalist. The closest I can come is to say that it was like discovering a tiny piece of the Caribbean I had always dreamed of visiting but thought had long disappeared.

The Naturalist is perfect for us. It is small, the rooms are a good size and kept spotlessly clean. They are equipped with a small fridge and cookstove and basic utensils and dishes. There is a huge patio area overlooking the beach and a charcoal bbq if you want to grill your own supper.

The best thing about The Naturalist is the staff, beginning with Ancle himself, who is charming, helpful, and so relaxed that it is impossible to stay stressed if he is around.

The village is a working fishing village. People go about their lives, friendly and courteous to the visitors, but their lives and their community do not revolve around tourists. Shopping is confined to little stalls that sell the basics: fresh fruit and vegetables, bread, tinned goods, spices and hot sauce. You can pick up the catch of the day at the fishermen's stand on the beach, and of course, rum and Caribbean beer, soft drinks and bottled water. There is usually chicken, and always eggs -- the village is overrun with chickens and cockerels, which crow at all hours of the day and night.

There are several small restaurants on or close to the beach, where we ate most evenings, and also picked up roti for lunch. The food is simple but excellent fare -- disregard the menu on the chalkboard, just ask what they are serving that day! And there is no night life. So if you want fancy shops and restaurants, and bars with live music, Castara is not for you. If, however, you love walking along the beach looking at the stars to the music of the surf, then Castara IS for you. And the sunsets are amazing.

The setting is idyllic, with a crescent shaped sandy beach in front and the rain forest rising up the hills behind. The water is crystal clear and warm, and there are no dangerous currents or undertows to worry about. We spent hours in the water every day, watching the fish beneath us and the frigate birds above.

We were there for only three days in June 2005, but our experience was so incredible that we booked a return visit for ten days in February 2006. And that visit was even more amazing. We spent one day on a fishing boat excursion up the wild and beautiful coast with Duck, one of the local fishermen, and his nephew Dolla. It was an incredible experience, going up the coast in a small boat with an old 50hp Evinrude outboard motor, Duck and his nephew trolling for fish with fishing line wrapped around their hands. We ended up at a lovely sandy cove where Duck grilled the fish over live coals, and we spent the rest of the day swimming and walking on the beach. Lovely.

Suffice it to say, we had such a wonderful time that we are going back in February 2007 for fifteen days. Castara and The Naturalist feel like a second home now.